Transcript: I just surfed Swami's, got some decent waves, I wouldn't say they were like out of this world today or anything like that, but it was a fun time, I got like a solid wave to start and then saw Gregory out there and just kind of had a good time, kind of like as per usual caught like a fair number of waves for myself. And yeah, I mean there was one guy getting really aggressive out there which was kind of sad to see, I was like dude, you need to calm down, it's all good, like this is Swami's, people drop in on you, you gotta expect it, also the guy called that he was gonna go left and you were yelling at him for going left, so it's like bro, come on. But yeah, it was a good day and just like enjoying, again saw dolphins as I was getting out of the water and yeah, mostly just chilling and just singing acoustic melodies in my head and out loud the whole time.
The surfer caught several perfect waves back-to-back at Swami's, starting with a small insider followed by a six-foot wave that was an absolute blast. The conditions changed as the tide came in, making the waves mushier, which combined with the crowdedness, prompted the surfer to move to a different spot called Boneyards. At Boneyards, the surfer gave a good wave to a girl he met and then caught two amazing rights, noticing fewer surfers there compared to Swami's. Eventually, after the shoulder pain started, the surfer took a final wave in, completing a day of beautiful surfing with light winds and nice surface texture.
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The surfer found Swami's in Encinitas incredibly busy, describing it as a disaster due to the overwhelming crowd. Finding parking was difficult, leading them to park at Pipes and paddle to Swami's, only to find an unusually large crowd and intense energy in the water. After catching only a few waves, they decided to move to Boneyard's where the surf was smaller but enjoyable for its calming effect. Despite the challenges, the surfer appreciated the beauty of the day, noting the warm weather in January and acknowledging the overall positive experience of being at the beach.
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This project serves as a reminder to be grateful, mostly because reflections revolve around things that bring happiness and gratitude, highlighting a positive default mindset. After a morning surf at Swami's with a longboard lent by Kyle, the experience was a mix of thrilling drops and spills, as well as an adjustment to the board's different feel and the technique required to maneuver it. The waves at Swami's were mellow enough to encourage trying without much fear, making the session enjoyable despite a few wipeouts. Despite the stormy conditions with wind and rain, the day turned out better than expected, providing mediocre to good waves for surfing, making it a pleasantly surprising day.
I had a morning surf session at Swami's, starting a bit later than intended around 6:20 am and getting into the water by 6:50 am for an hour-long surf until the tide came in. Observing a girl tripping over the rocks offered a cautionary glimpse of the challenging conditions, which proved true as several surfers were washed down the beach later. Carefully monitoring the waves, I managed to avoid getting swept against the rocks, unlike one surfer whose leash tangled, while another provided me with helpful advice on board positioning. The session was enjoyable with consistent four to five-foot waves, sometimes reaching six or seven feet, indicating my board's suitability for good wave conditions and its maneuverability.
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The surfer had a somewhat disappointing day at Swami's, despite getting out early and having two boards with him. He decided to surf with the longboard and without a leash, which turned out to be a bad move as the surf was mixed up and not suitable for a longboard. He struggled to hold onto his board during a big set, losing it several times. He took some rough falls and learned the hard way that it was a mistake to go out without a leash. Despite the challenging conditions, he still considered it a decent day because any day that allows him to surf is a good day.