Transcript: I did go surfing today at Swami's and, you know, it was, it was kind of a disaster in some way. A good disaster, but still a disaster. In the sense like, it was so busy in Encinitas, I've never seen Encinitas that busy. It was like every person on the planet was trying to surf in Encinitas today, or just like be in Encinitas, generally speaking, in the afternoon. So I learned my lesson, I guess, don't go there in the afternoon on a weekend. Parking was a nightmare. I ended up parking at Pipes, which is probably about a half a mile south, or maybe even a mile south of Swami's, and I jumped in the water at Pipes and paddled over to Swami's, and it was the biggest crowd that I've ever seen there. I caught like one or two waves there before, I was like, dude, this is not worth it. And I paddled over to Boneyard's. So basically I just paddled today. I caught a couple good waves at Boneyard's, but mostly it was just like playing around in small surf, and it was still good. It was like a reset and a slowing down, which is nice. But it was relatively small, three foot probably on average, maybe four foot, the occasional six foot come through, but like it was pretty chill today on the whole. And occasionally I would go over and paddle back to Swami's, and it was just like the energy there was so intense, like so many people trying to catch every wave. And not only that, there were some people who were really, really good, and I clearly was like, I don't fit in here today. So a very different energy at Swami's than I'm used to. But on the whole, who can complain? It's a beautiful day. It's like 75 degrees out in January, like, come on. I just was at the beach for a few hours. It's a good day. You know, it's still a good day.
The surfer caught several perfect waves back-to-back at Swami's, starting with a small insider followed by a six-foot wave that was an absolute blast. The conditions changed as the tide came in, making the waves mushier, which combined with the crowdedness, prompted the surfer to move to a different spot called Boneyards. At Boneyards, the surfer gave a good wave to a girl he met and then caught two amazing rights, noticing fewer surfers there compared to Swami's. Eventually, after the shoulder pain started, the surfer took a final wave in, completing a day of beautiful surfing with light winds and nice surface texture.
I had a fun surf session at Swami's with decent, but not exceptional, waves and started off catching a solid one. I ran into Gregory, which made the time more enjoyable, as I usually catch a fair number of waves there. There was an incident with an overly aggressive surfer, which was disappointing; he was upset about someone dropping in on him even though it's a common occurrence at Swami's and the other surfer had signaled his intent. Overall, it was a good day, I got to see dolphins while leaving the water, and I spent my time chilling and singing acoustic melodies both in my head and out loud.
I had a morning surf session at Swami's, starting a bit later than intended around 6:20 am and getting into the water by 6:50 am for an hour-long surf until the tide came in. Observing a girl tripping over the rocks offered a cautionary glimpse of the challenging conditions, which proved true as several surfers were washed down the beach later. Carefully monitoring the waves, I managed to avoid getting swept against the rocks, unlike one surfer whose leash tangled, while another provided me with helpful advice on board positioning. The session was enjoyable with consistent four to five-foot waves, sometimes reaching six or seven feet, indicating my board's suitability for good wave conditions and its maneuverability.
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The surfer had a somewhat disappointing day at Swami's, despite getting out early and having two boards with him. He decided to surf with the longboard and without a leash, which turned out to be a bad move as the surf was mixed up and not suitable for a longboard. He struggled to hold onto his board during a big set, losing it several times. He took some rough falls and learned the hard way that it was a mistake to go out without a leash. Despite the challenging conditions, he still considered it a decent day because any day that allows him to surf is a good day.
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Today I decided to surf at Sunset Cliffs, initially underwhelmed by the apparent poor surf conditions. However, once out in the water, the waves proved to be unexpectedly steep and challenging, making for an exciting session. I met a few surfers, including someone named Brian, all of us on shorter boards, catching waves and occasionally wiping out. Despite the struggles with some powerful sets and an intense paddling experience, I managed to catch a particularly large, thrilling wave, turning the session into a memorable one despite the ocean's humbling force.