Transcript: I did go surfing today at Swami's and, you know, it was, it was kind of a disaster in some way. A good disaster, but still a disaster. In the sense like, it was so busy in Encinitas, I've never seen Encinitas that busy. It was like every person on the planet was trying to surf in Encinitas today, or just like be in Encinitas, generally speaking, in the afternoon. So I learned my lesson, I guess, don't go there in the afternoon on a weekend. Parking was a nightmare. I ended up parking at Pipes, which is probably about a half a mile south, or maybe even a mile south of Swami's, and I jumped in the water at Pipes and paddled over to Swami's, and it was the biggest crowd that I've ever seen there. I caught like one or two waves there before, I was like, dude, this is not worth it. And I paddled over to Boneyard's. So basically I just paddled today. I caught a couple good waves at Boneyard's, but mostly it was just like playing around in small surf, and it was still good. It was like a reset and a slowing down, which is nice. But it was relatively small, three foot probably on average, maybe four foot, the occasional six foot come through, but like it was pretty chill today on the whole. And occasionally I would go over and paddle back to Swami's, and it was just like the energy there was so intense, like so many people trying to catch every wave. And not only that, there were some people who were really, really good, and I clearly was like, I don't fit in here today. So a very different energy at Swami's than I'm used to. But on the whole, who can complain? It's a beautiful day. It's like 75 degrees out in January, like, come on. I just was at the beach for a few hours. It's a good day. You know, it's still a good day.
I had a morning surf session at Swami's, starting a bit later than intended around 6:20 am and getting into the water by 6:50 am for an hour-long surf until the tide came in. Observing a girl tripping over the rocks offered a cautionary glimpse of the challenging conditions, which proved true as several surfers were washed down the beach later. Carefully monitoring the waves, I managed to avoid getting swept against the rocks, unlike one surfer whose leash tangled, while another provided me with helpful advice on board positioning. The session was enjoyable with consistent four to five-foot waves, sometimes reaching six or seven feet, indicating my board's suitability for good wave conditions and its maneuverability.
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The surfer had a somewhat disappointing day at Swami's, despite getting out early and having two boards with him. He decided to surf with the longboard and without a leash, which turned out to be a bad move as the surf was mixed up and not suitable for a longboard. He struggled to hold onto his board during a big set, losing it several times. He took some rough falls and learned the hard way that it was a mistake to go out without a leash. Despite the challenging conditions, he still considered it a decent day because any day that allows him to surf is a good day.
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I started surfing at North Garbage but quickly moved to South Garbage due to the better waves and less crowded conditions. While paddling out, I had a close call with another surfer who yelled at me; I apologized, but he continued to be aggressive, suggesting I should leave the water. Despite the unpleasant encounter, I caught around 50 waves, including some impressive ones that others weren't attempting. Overall, it was a solid surfing day with good conditions and a chance to get used to my new board.
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Today yielded perfect waves and a solid surf session, but the challenge was the crowded conditions and a closed parking lot. The surfer is feeling exhausted after potentially surfing six out of the last seven days, and plans to rest and get a tetanus shot due to a scrape. They're also becoming more familiar with the local surf community, having met and conversed with several people in the lineup. Despite being tired and facing competition for waves, the surfer still had a satisfying outing, maneuvering around others and catching a particularly memorable right wave.
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This project serves as a reminder to be grateful, mostly because reflections revolve around things that bring happiness and gratitude, highlighting a positive default mindset. After a morning surf at Swami's with a longboard lent by Kyle, the experience was a mix of thrilling drops and spills, as well as an adjustment to the board's different feel and the technique required to maneuver it. The waves at Swami's were mellow enough to encourage trying without much fear, making the session enjoyable despite a few wipeouts. Despite the stormy conditions with wind and rain, the day turned out better than expected, providing mediocre to good waves for surfing, making it a pleasantly surprising day.