Transcript: So, I just got done at Swami's. Man, when I was getting in at 625, there's a guy getting out. Dude must have surfed in the moonlight. It was a full moon. Like, also probably was bombing. It was probably awesome. Yeah, when I got in, when I looked at the waves, it was just perfect. It was just perfect. Nothing more to say. Like, the waves were perfect. And when I got in, I caught two or three waves pretty much off the bat, back to back to back, that were all perfect. First one was like a small insider. It was fun. Second one was like an outside wave that lined up perfectly for me to catch. Like, just a five or six foot wave that lined up perfectly for me. And, I mean, it was immediately just an absolute frickin' blast. It was so good. And then I think I caught one more wave after that. I don't know if it was my next wave or the wave after that, the next. But, holy crap. It was just like this bomb that I dropped in on. And I just, yeah, it was just a blast. The rest of the waves today were like pretty, you know, like pretty average, I'd say. Like, once the tide came in, it definitely started getting mushier. As well as just like, Swarmys, as a name, is very true. Like, at some point, I just saw like 20 people paddling on the inside of where you're supposed to like drop into waves. And I was like, fuck this. Like, I'm not taking this right anymore. So I went and paddled over to the deep left, or rather, the deep right, to try and catch some rights. And I caught some over there. It was okay. When you're too deep, sometimes it just sections out in front of you. It's like actually not that great. Sometimes it's actually best to just take the left. But, after a while, like the crowd was so heavy that I went over and paddled myself to Boneyards for the first time, because it just looked better. And I did, and it was a good time. I missed the first wave that I caught, and then the next wave after that was looking really good. But I let this girl who I met, she take the wave, and she said it was an excellent wave, which I'm super happy about, because I wasn't quite in position. I probably could have got myself into position, but I was like, eh, it's really her wave. So, I let her get the wave. And then, she went back to Swammy's, and I stayed at Boneyards, and some set came through, and, yeah, it was just nuts. Yeah, some set came through, and I just caught like two amazing rights back to back. And I was like, wow, I can't believe no one's surfing over here. And I would look over at Swammy's in the peak, and it's dead. So, and then I caught one more, took a right back over to Swammy's, and then Swammy's was bombing for laps, so I took like three laps, three bombs at Swammy's before my shoulder started giving out, my left shoulder started having a little bit of like a tinge in it. So, I figured like it's probably time to get out, so I took a right, took it in, and got my ass out of the water for the day. But, yeah, it was a nice, fun day at Swammy's. Basically perfect conditions. Pretty light winds, surface texture was really nice. Just overall, pretty beautiful surf, to be honest.
I had a fun surf session at Swami's with decent, but not exceptional, waves and started off catching a solid one. I ran into Gregory, which made the time more enjoyable, as I usually catch a fair number of waves there. There was an incident with an overly aggressive surfer, which was disappointing; he was upset about someone dropping in on him even though it's a common occurrence at Swami's and the other surfer had signaled his intent. Overall, it was a good day, I got to see dolphins while leaving the water, and I spent my time chilling and singing acoustic melodies both in my head and out loud.
I had a morning surf session at Swami's, starting a bit later than intended around 6:20 am and getting into the water by 6:50 am for an hour-long surf until the tide came in. Observing a girl tripping over the rocks offered a cautionary glimpse of the challenging conditions, which proved true as several surfers were washed down the beach later. Carefully monitoring the waves, I managed to avoid getting swept against the rocks, unlike one surfer whose leash tangled, while another provided me with helpful advice on board positioning. The session was enjoyable with consistent four to five-foot waves, sometimes reaching six or seven feet, indicating my board's suitability for good wave conditions and its maneuverability.
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I started surfing at North Garbage but quickly moved to South Garbage due to the better waves and less crowded conditions. While paddling out, I had a close call with another surfer who yelled at me; I apologized, but he continued to be aggressive, suggesting I should leave the water. Despite the unpleasant encounter, I caught around 50 waves, including some impressive ones that others weren't attempting. Overall, it was a solid surfing day with good conditions and a chance to get used to my new board.
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The surfer found Swami's in Encinitas incredibly busy, describing it as a disaster due to the overwhelming crowd. Finding parking was difficult, leading them to park at Pipes and paddle to Swami's, only to find an unusually large crowd and intense energy in the water. After catching only a few waves, they decided to move to Boneyard's where the surf was smaller but enjoyable for its calming effect. Despite the challenges, the surfer appreciated the beauty of the day, noting the warm weather in January and acknowledging the overall positive experience of being at the beach.
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Today I decided to surf at Sunset Cliffs, initially underwhelmed by the apparent poor surf conditions. However, once out in the water, the waves proved to be unexpectedly steep and challenging, making for an exciting session. I met a few surfers, including someone named Brian, all of us on shorter boards, catching waves and occasionally wiping out. Despite the struggles with some powerful sets and an intense paddling experience, I managed to catch a particularly large, thrilling wave, turning the session into a memorable one despite the ocean's humbling force.