"A Day of Perfect Waves: A Surfer's Journey at Swami's and Boneyards"
Jan 26, 2024 - 8:25amSummary: The surfer caught several perfect waves back-to-back at Swami's, starting with a small insider followed by a six-foot wave that was an absolute blast. The conditions changed as the tide came in, making the waves mushier, which combined with the crowdedness, prompted the surfer to move to a different spot called Boneyards. At Boneyards, the surfer gave a good wave to a girl he met and then caught two amazing rights, noticing fewer surfers there compared to Swami's. Eventually, after the shoulder pain started, the surfer took a final wave in, completing a day of beautiful surfing with light winds and nice surface texture.Transcript: So, I just got done at Swami's. Man, when I was getting in at 625, there's a guy getting out. Dude must have surfed in the moonlight. It was a full moon. Like, also probably was bombing. It was probably awesome. Yeah, when I got in, when I looked at the waves, it was just perfect. It was just perfect. Nothing more to say. Like, the waves were perfect. And when I got in, I caught two or three waves pretty much off the bat, back to back to back, that were all perfect. First one was like a small insider. It was fun. Second one was like an outside wave that lined up perfectly for me to catch. Like, just a five or six foot wave that lined up perfectly for me. And, I mean, it was immediately just an absolute frickin' blast. It was so good. And then I think I caught one more wave after that. I don't know if it was my next wave or the wave after that, the next. But, holy crap. It was just like this bomb that I dropped in on. And I just, yeah, it was just a blast. The rest of the waves today were like pretty, you know, like pretty average, I'd say. Like, once the tide came in, it definitely started getting mushier. As well as just like, Swarmys, as a name, is very true. Like, at some point, I just saw like 20 people paddling on the inside of where you're supposed to like drop into waves. And I was like, fuck this. Like, I'm not taking this right anymore. So I went and paddled over to the deep left, or rather, the deep right, to try and catch some rights. And I caught some over there. It was okay. When you're too deep, sometimes it just sections out in front of you. It's like actually not that great. Sometimes it's actually best to just take the left. But, after a while, like the crowd was so heavy that I went over and paddled myself to Boneyards for the first time, because it just looked better. And I did, and it was a good time. I missed the first wave that I caught, and then the next wave after that was looking really good. But I let this girl who I met, she take the wave, and she said it was an excellent wave, which I'm super happy about, because I wasn't quite in position. I probably could have got myself into position, but I was like, eh, it's really her wave. So, I let her get the wave. And then, she went back to Swammy's, and I stayed at Boneyards, and some set came through, and, yeah, it was just nuts. Yeah, some set came through, and I just caught like two amazing rights back to back. And I was like, wow, I can't believe no one's surfing over here. And I would look over at Swammy's in the peak, and it's dead. So, and then I caught one more, took a right back over to Swammy's, and then Swammy's was bombing for laps, so I took like three laps, three bombs at Swammy's before my shoulder started giving out, my left shoulder started having a little bit of like a tinge in it. So, I figured like it's probably time to get out, so I took a right, took it in, and got my ass out of the water for the day. But, yeah, it was a nice, fun day at Swammy's. Basically perfect conditions. Pretty light winds, surface texture was really nice. Just overall, pretty beautiful surf, to be honest.
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