Transcript: Man, I just wanted to let y'all know that I surfed today and it was not great. I mean, it was okay, it was okay, it was okay. You know, any day that you can surf is probably a pretty decent day, let's be honest. But I got up and out of the house around 6.30, out of the house, actually out of the house around 6.15, and got to Swami's and got together. I had both my boards brought, both my boards, and I looked at the surf and it looked pretty bad. And I decided I wanted to surf still, so I went and surfed. And I decided to take out the longboard and I went leashless, which was a bad move. The surf was pretty mixed up. I got a couple decent waves, but because it was so mixed up, like really the longboard was not the board to be out there with. And eventually a big set comes through and kind of just, you know, just fucks me up, basically. I lost my board one time and then it ended up next to me and I was like, oh my gosh, I got so lucky. So then I was like, I gotta paddle out of this right now so I don't lose my board again. And then sure enough, another big wave comes through and I can't get under it. I can't hold onto my board when the wave is that big sometimes. And I lost it again. I also took a steep drop on a wave, like probably six or seven footer, and I just nosedived my board straight to the bottom of the wave. Not even straight to the bottom of the wave. I was like going the right direction, but like I just, I messed up. And I lost the board again and it was next to me again and I was like, I can't believe I'm getting this lucky. And then sure enough, I'm paddling back out and I lose the board one more time and it goes all the way into shore. And I say, you know what? I shouldn't have gone leashless today. That was lesson learned. So that was the surfing adventure for today. But yeah, there it is.
I had a morning surf session at Swami's, starting a bit later than intended around 6:20 am and getting into the water by 6:50 am for an hour-long surf until the tide came in. Observing a girl tripping over the rocks offered a cautionary glimpse of the challenging conditions, which proved true as several surfers were washed down the beach later. Carefully monitoring the waves, I managed to avoid getting swept against the rocks, unlike one surfer whose leash tangled, while another provided me with helpful advice on board positioning. The session was enjoyable with consistent four to five-foot waves, sometimes reaching six or seven feet, indicating my board's suitability for good wave conditions and its maneuverability.
The surfer had an incredible day out on the waves, despite initially expecting poor conditions. They made a quick decision to head out after checking the camera. The waves turned out to be amazing, with the surfer enjoying numerous exhilarating rides, including a particularly memorable one towards the end. They also mentioned plans to surf with a friend the next day and expressed enthusiasm for the anticipated 6 to 8-foot waves. Despite the intense physical activity, the surfer felt strong and barely experienced any discomfort.
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This project serves as a reminder to be grateful, mostly because reflections revolve around things that bring happiness and gratitude, highlighting a positive default mindset. After a morning surf at Swami's with a longboard lent by Kyle, the experience was a mix of thrilling drops and spills, as well as an adjustment to the board's different feel and the technique required to maneuver it. The waves at Swami's were mellow enough to encourage trying without much fear, making the session enjoyable despite a few wipeouts. Despite the stormy conditions with wind and rain, the day turned out better than expected, providing mediocre to good waves for surfing, making it a pleasantly surprising day.
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The speaker reflects on the experience of surfing today, expressing a desire for technology to automatically provide contextual details like location and surf conditions. They describe the struggle of choosing a surf spot due to large swells, ultimately opting for a break called TORMO. However, upon entering the water, they realize the waves appear smaller than expected and the paddling distance is challenging. Despite the current pulling them southward, they persevere in their surfing experience. Sure, whether it's an entire book or a brief article, I'm happy to condense it down to its core message. Just share the text with me, and I'll summarize it in 4 sentences or fewer. The speaker recalls catching a wave and feeling elated as they successfully performed maneuvers similar to those on a long board. They caught one more wave but were tired from paddling out, which was intensified by the increasing number of inexperienced surfers. The speaker felt nervous for the less skilled surfers' safety and questioned their own abilities initially but gained confidence after catching multiple waves successfully. Overall, the speaker reflects on the enjoyment of the day's surfing experience.
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The surfer found Swami's in Encinitas incredibly busy, describing it as a disaster due to the overwhelming crowd. Finding parking was difficult, leading them to park at Pipes and paddle to Swami's, only to find an unusually large crowd and intense energy in the water. After catching only a few waves, they decided to move to Boneyard's where the surf was smaller but enjoyable for its calming effect. Despite the challenges, the surfer appreciated the beauty of the day, noting the warm weather in January and acknowledging the overall positive experience of being at the beach.