"A Day at Swami's: A Lesson Learned"
Jan 4, 2024 - 6:47pmSummary: The surfer had a somewhat disappointing day at Swami's, despite getting out early and having two boards with him. He decided to surf with the longboard and without a leash, which turned out to be a bad move as the surf was mixed up and not suitable for a longboard. He struggled to hold onto his board during a big set, losing it several times. He took some rough falls and learned the hard way that it was a mistake to go out without a leash. Despite the challenging conditions, he still considered it a decent day because any day that allows him to surf is a good day.Transcript: Man, I just wanted to let y'all know that I surfed today and it was not great. I mean, it was okay, it was okay, it was okay. You know, any day that you can surf is probably a pretty decent day, let's be honest. But I got up and out of the house around 6.30, out of the house, actually out of the house around 6.15, and got to Swami's and got together. I had both my boards brought, both my boards, and I looked at the surf and it looked pretty bad. And I decided I wanted to surf still, so I went and surfed. And I decided to take out the longboard and I went leashless, which was a bad move. The surf was pretty mixed up. I got a couple decent waves, but because it was so mixed up, like really the longboard was not the board to be out there with. And eventually a big set comes through and kind of just, you know, just fucks me up, basically. I lost my board one time and then it ended up next to me and I was like, oh my gosh, I got so lucky. So then I was like, I gotta paddle out of this right now so I don't lose my board again. And then sure enough, another big wave comes through and I can't get under it. I can't hold onto my board when the wave is that big sometimes. And I lost it again. I also took a steep drop on a wave, like probably six or seven footer, and I just nosedived my board straight to the bottom of the wave. Not even straight to the bottom of the wave. I was like going the right direction, but like I just, I messed up. And I lost the board again and it was next to me again and I was like, I can't believe I'm getting this lucky. And then sure enough, I'm paddling back out and I lose the board one more time and it goes all the way into shore. And I say, you know what? I shouldn't have gone leashless today. That was lesson learned. So that was the surfing adventure for today. But yeah, there it is.
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