"Morning Surf Session at Swami's: Navigating Challenging Conditions"
Jan 25, 2024 - 8:21amSummary: I had a morning surf session at Swami's, starting a bit later than intended around 6:20 am and getting into the water by 6:50 am for an hour-long surf until the tide came in. Observing a girl tripping over the rocks offered a cautionary glimpse of the challenging conditions, which proved true as several surfers were washed down the beach later. Carefully monitoring the waves, I managed to avoid getting swept against the rocks, unlike one surfer whose leash tangled, while another provided me with helpful advice on board positioning. The session was enjoyable with consistent four to five-foot waves, sometimes reaching six or seven feet, indicating my board's suitability for good wave conditions and its maneuverability.Transcript: Might as well record a little morning sesh, surf sesh, went to Swami's, got up a little bit later than I wanted to this morning, I got up around 6.20 out of bed, got to the break at 6.50, ended up surfing for about an hour, a little bit longer, pretty fun until the tide came in. It was funny watching the first, I was going down the stairs and then had to get into the break and some girl was tripping over the rocks when I first was getting in, which is a sign for later in the day, getting back in was going to be sketchy, and it was. A bunch of people got washed down the beach and had to paddle back out to paddle back up. Fortunately for me, I was paying pretty close attention to the waves and being like, okay, I'm not going to let a big wave take me out and bring me and smash me against the rocks, so I kind of was watching the waves and the waves behind me paddled back out a little bit before I paddled in just to not get smashed by the waves. Worked out pretty good for me. The next guy after me, his leash got tangled in the rocks, which is not so good, but, yeah, it was a nice day. Wasn't anything too crazy. Some big sets came through. I caught a bomb, which is fun, and at the end of the session, a guy came up to me and gave me some suggestions to basically get further forward on my board when I'm paddling, which makes sense. I'm still very much figuring out this board, so I guess that might help quite a lot. I was staying back on the board so I could get more maneuverability on it, but today showed me that this board is actually quite maneuverable, but it does require good waves, like decent waves. I think the waves that I had been surfing are probably just big and choppy kind of like crap waves, and this board didn't show much promise in those conditions. Probably a smaller board would have been helpful, but overall solid. It was probably like four to five foot for the most part, maybe occasional six or seven came through, but it was a four or five foot day for the most part. Pretty fun, though.
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