Transcript: Might as well record a little morning sesh, surf sesh, went to Swami's, got up a little bit later than I wanted to this morning, I got up around 6.20 out of bed, got to the break at 6.50, ended up surfing for about an hour, a little bit longer, pretty fun until the tide came in. It was funny watching the first, I was going down the stairs and then had to get into the break and some girl was tripping over the rocks when I first was getting in, which is a sign for later in the day, getting back in was going to be sketchy, and it was. A bunch of people got washed down the beach and had to paddle back out to paddle back up. Fortunately for me, I was paying pretty close attention to the waves and being like, okay, I'm not going to let a big wave take me out and bring me and smash me against the rocks, so I kind of was watching the waves and the waves behind me paddled back out a little bit before I paddled in just to not get smashed by the waves. Worked out pretty good for me. The next guy after me, his leash got tangled in the rocks, which is not so good, but, yeah, it was a nice day. Wasn't anything too crazy. Some big sets came through. I caught a bomb, which is fun, and at the end of the session, a guy came up to me and gave me some suggestions to basically get further forward on my board when I'm paddling, which makes sense. I'm still very much figuring out this board, so I guess that might help quite a lot. I was staying back on the board so I could get more maneuverability on it, but today showed me that this board is actually quite maneuverable, but it does require good waves, like decent waves. I think the waves that I had been surfing are probably just big and choppy kind of like crap waves, and this board didn't show much promise in those conditions. Probably a smaller board would have been helpful, but overall solid. It was probably like four to five foot for the most part, maybe occasional six or seven came through, but it was a four or five foot day for the most part. Pretty fun, though.
The surfer had an incredible day out on the waves, despite initially expecting poor conditions. They made a quick decision to head out after checking the camera. The waves turned out to be amazing, with the surfer enjoying numerous exhilarating rides, including a particularly memorable one towards the end. They also mentioned plans to surf with a friend the next day and expressed enthusiasm for the anticipated 6 to 8-foot waves. Despite the intense physical activity, the surfer felt strong and barely experienced any discomfort.
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The surfer had a somewhat disappointing day at Swami's, despite getting out early and having two boards with him. He decided to surf with the longboard and without a leash, which turned out to be a bad move as the surf was mixed up and not suitable for a longboard. He struggled to hold onto his board during a big set, losing it several times. He took some rough falls and learned the hard way that it was a mistake to go out without a leash. Despite the challenging conditions, he still considered it a decent day because any day that allows him to surf is a good day.
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Today yielded perfect waves and a solid surf session, but the challenge was the crowded conditions and a closed parking lot. The surfer is feeling exhausted after potentially surfing six out of the last seven days, and plans to rest and get a tetanus shot due to a scrape. They're also becoming more familiar with the local surf community, having met and conversed with several people in the lineup. Despite being tired and facing competition for waves, the surfer still had a satisfying outing, maneuvering around others and catching a particularly memorable right wave.
After initially hesitating due to poor conditions seen on the cams, the speaker decided to go surfing at Sunset Cliffs and ended up having a great day with good waves and few people. They were pleased with their decision as they experienced perfect offshore winds and a low tide. The speaker had fun meeting people, including someone named Chris playing reggae from a van, and also saw a familiar face, Brian. Despite the speaker's phone frequently stopping during voice memo recordings, their morning was described as truly pleasant and enjoyable.
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I started surfing at North Garbage but quickly moved to South Garbage due to the better waves and less crowded conditions. While paddling out, I had a close call with another surfer who yelled at me; I apologized, but he continued to be aggressive, suggesting I should leave the water. Despite the unpleasant encounter, I caught around 50 waves, including some impressive ones that others weren't attempting. Overall, it was a solid surfing day with good conditions and a chance to get used to my new board.