"Finding Gratitude: A Day of Surfing at Swami's"
Jan 21, 2024 - 10:43amSummary: This project serves as a reminder to be grateful, mostly because reflections revolve around things that bring happiness and gratitude, highlighting a positive default mindset. After a morning surf at Swami's with a longboard lent by Kyle, the experience was a mix of thrilling drops and spills, as well as an adjustment to the board's different feel and the technique required to maneuver it. The waves at Swami's were mellow enough to encourage trying without much fear, making the session enjoyable despite a few wipeouts. Despite the stormy conditions with wind and rain, the day turned out better than expected, providing mediocre to good waves for surfing, making it a pleasantly surprising day.Transcript: It's interesting in some ways that this project is a reminder to be grateful. Because anytime I think about things, the things that I want to put in most are things that I'm like grateful for or happy about, and it's fascinating. It's just fascinating that that's like the default mode. And yeah, I did go surfing this morning as well at Swami's, and it was big, and I took out the longboard that Kyle lent to me, and yo, that was a crash. I took out the longboard that Kyle lent to me, and it was nice. I mean, starting to feel it out. It's very different than my other one. Definitely have to like step on the tail way more to get the board to turn and maneuver, but I mean, it feels good. It feels like a longboard, so I'm stoked. It's a little interesting having that extra weight. And dropped in on some bombs. Dropped in on some bombs, ate shit a couple times. A couple times making it out, and surprisingly so, but it felt good to just drop in and try, you know, and like I wasn't really scared, which is a good thing about Swami's. It's like easy, like the waves are mellow enough where it's easy to not be that scared. So yeah, it's a nice, nice little day, and I mean, surprisingly nice given the storm. It was windy and rainy, and you would think like the conditions would be absolutely god-awful, but it turned out to be like, you know, mediocre to good, I'd say. Like got some decent waves, like nothing fantastic. It wasn't like a fantastic day, but it was like a, it was like an all right day. So very nice.
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