"Surfing at Swamys: A Fantastic Morning Experience"
Dec 16, 2023 - 10:50amSummary: The writer went surfing at Swamys this morning and had a fantastic time, preferring it over another location. They expressed excitement about going out again tomorrow and hoped to leave even earlier to catch more waves. The writer had a two-hour surf session with a lot of waves and also met a European guy. Overall, they are looking forward to the next surf session and planning to leave the house even earlier for a better experience.Transcript: I also surfed this morning at Swamys. I was debating between OB and Swamys, and my god, I am so happy I went to Swamys. It was just fantastic out there, to be honest. I had a blast, and I'll go try to check the cams now, actually, to see if I can find myself for my last wave, but yeah, I don't know. Just a really great time out there. I'm really excited to go out tomorrow. I want to get out even earlier than I did this morning from my house. I think I left at 6.05 and got there at 6.25. I got out of the water around 8.49, I think, so a solid two-hour surf and a lot of waves, and I met this European guy. Fuck, what's his name? Not George, but whatever. I'll get his name again next time, but yeah, it was great out there. I can't wait to go tomorrow, get an earlier start, probably leave my house at 5.30 at the latest, really. It's probably going to be the way to go. Get that extra 30 minutes in the dark before sunrise, and hopefully with a lot less people out there, too, and catch some solid waves while I can.
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The surfer caught several perfect waves back-to-back at Swami's, starting with a small insider followed by a six-foot wave that was an absolute blast. The conditions changed as the tide came in, making the waves mushier, which combined with the crowdedness, prompted the surfer to move to a different spot called Boneyards. At Boneyards, the surfer gave a good wave to a girl he met and then caught two amazing rights, noticing fewer surfers there compared to Swami's. Eventually, after the shoulder pain started, the surfer took a final wave in, completing a day of beautiful surfing with light winds and nice surface texture.
The surfer had an incredible day out on the waves, despite initially expecting poor conditions. They made a quick decision to head out after checking the camera. The waves turned out to be amazing, with the surfer enjoying numerous exhilarating rides, including a particularly memorable one towards the end. They also mentioned plans to surf with a friend the next day and expressed enthusiasm for the anticipated 6 to 8-foot waves. Despite the intense physical activity, the surfer felt strong and barely experienced any discomfort.
I had a morning surf session at Swami's, starting a bit later than intended around 6:20 am and getting into the water by 6:50 am for an hour-long surf until the tide came in. Observing a girl tripping over the rocks offered a cautionary glimpse of the challenging conditions, which proved true as several surfers were washed down the beach later. Carefully monitoring the waves, I managed to avoid getting swept against the rocks, unlike one surfer whose leash tangled, while another provided me with helpful advice on board positioning. The session was enjoyable with consistent four to five-foot waves, sometimes reaching six or seven feet, indicating my board's suitability for good wave conditions and its maneuverability.
After initially hesitating due to poor conditions seen on the cams, the speaker decided to go surfing at Sunset Cliffs and ended up having a great day with good waves and few people. They were pleased with their decision as they experienced perfect offshore winds and a low tide. The speaker had fun meeting people, including someone named Chris playing reggae from a van, and also saw a familiar face, Brian. Despite the speaker's phone frequently stopping during voice memo recordings, their morning was described as truly pleasant and enjoyable.
I had a fun surf session at Swami's with decent, but not exceptional, waves and started off catching a solid one. I ran into Gregory, which made the time more enjoyable, as I usually catch a fair number of waves there. There was an incident with an overly aggressive surfer, which was disappointing; he was upset about someone dropping in on him even though it's a common occurrence at Swami's and the other surfer had signaled his intent. Overall, it was a good day, I got to see dolphins while leaving the water, and I spent my time chilling and singing acoustic melodies both in my head and out loud.
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