"Spectacular Surf Day: Riding the Waves and Anticipating More to Come"
Jan 5, 2024 - 8:41amSummary: The surfer had an incredible day out on the waves, despite initially expecting poor conditions. They made a quick decision to head out after checking the camera. The waves turned out to be amazing, with the surfer enjoying numerous exhilarating rides, including a particularly memorable one towards the end. They also mentioned plans to surf with a friend the next day and expressed enthusiasm for the anticipated 6 to 8-foot waves. Despite the intense physical activity, the surfer felt strong and barely experienced any discomfort.Transcript: Yo, what a great day of surfing. I looked at the cam this morning and I thought it was going to be absolutely garbage, but I decided to go anyway. I woke up at 5.30, out of bed at 5.37, and started making moves. I was watching the cam, seeing if it was worth it, drove my ass up, got there, looked at the waves, and immediately upon looking at it, you're like, gotta get out there as fast as possible. It looked amazing. It just looked great. I did. I got out there. First wave was me just messing around, feeling it out. Second wave, or third wave, probably the best wave I had today, maybe. Maybe the second best wave. I don't even know. It was a great wave, though. Just cruising through the section, going to the bottom, hitting the top, going to the bottom, hitting the top. Just cruising down the wave and having a good time, big section, kind of closing it out in front of me, barely making it through the section, continuing to ride the wave all the way to the inside, and then paddling my ass back as fast as possible back to the outside. Just so many waves today, and it slowed down towards the end, but then it really, really picked up the last 10 minutes. Some 8, 10-foot bombs came through. I'd say probably closer to the size of 7 or 8, but it was large and in charge. I got one of them for the left, and it was fucking wild. Got a couple lefts, and it was solid, but yeah, just a really fantastic day. Good size, good power. I didn't bring the leash out because I saw the waves, and I was like, you know what? I could go leashless, but this is a bad day to do it. If it's a 4-foot day, probably good. It's like 5, 6-foot day, I would say, at least for most of the waves that I was catching. Probably 5, more like 5, but because those bigger waves come through, you just never know what you're going to get, and if you get stuck on the inside, you're fucked. Also, for me, having the leash is letting me get very aggressive in terms of dropping into waves and just getting comfortable dropping into big waves that I didn't think I could drop into. That is also really great, but yeah, what a way to get the morning started. It's like 2 and a half hours out there, maybe not quite 2 and a half, like 2 hours and 15, but did that without even thinking, and my body barely even started to hurt with all the paddling, which is also sweet, just feeling solid out there. I need to hit Chandler up and see if he wants to—actually, I already hit him up—and see if he wants to freaking go out with me tomorrow, because it's going to be 6 to 8, bro. I'm bringing my longboard, 6 to 8. If it's anything like today, it's going to be fantastic. Dude, I'm just going to bring my longboard, fucking show up at his house, drop the longboard if I have to, and just keep cruising, go to Irvine or some shit after that, because shit was amazing.
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