Transcript: Yo, what a great day of surfing. I looked at the cam this morning and I thought it was going to be absolutely garbage, but I decided to go anyway. I woke up at 5.30, out of bed at 5.37, and started making moves. I was watching the cam, seeing if it was worth it, drove my ass up, got there, looked at the waves, and immediately upon looking at it, you're like, gotta get out there as fast as possible. It looked amazing. It just looked great. I did. I got out there. First wave was me just messing around, feeling it out. Second wave, or third wave, probably the best wave I had today, maybe. Maybe the second best wave. I don't even know. It was a great wave, though. Just cruising through the section, going to the bottom, hitting the top, going to the bottom, hitting the top. Just cruising down the wave and having a good time, big section, kind of closing it out in front of me, barely making it through the section, continuing to ride the wave all the way to the inside, and then paddling my ass back as fast as possible back to the outside. Just so many waves today, and it slowed down towards the end, but then it really, really picked up the last 10 minutes. Some 8, 10-foot bombs came through. I'd say probably closer to the size of 7 or 8, but it was large and in charge. I got one of them for the left, and it was fucking wild. Got a couple lefts, and it was solid, but yeah, just a really fantastic day. Good size, good power. I didn't bring the leash out because I saw the waves, and I was like, you know what? I could go leashless, but this is a bad day to do it. If it's a 4-foot day, probably good. It's like 5, 6-foot day, I would say, at least for most of the waves that I was catching. Probably 5, more like 5, but because those bigger waves come through, you just never know what you're going to get, and if you get stuck on the inside, you're fucked. Also, for me, having the leash is letting me get very aggressive in terms of dropping into waves and just getting comfortable dropping into big waves that I didn't think I could drop into. That is also really great, but yeah, what a way to get the morning started. It's like 2 and a half hours out there, maybe not quite 2 and a half, like 2 hours and 15, but did that without even thinking, and my body barely even started to hurt with all the paddling, which is also sweet, just feeling solid out there. I need to hit Chandler up and see if he wants to—actually, I already hit him up—and see if he wants to freaking go out with me tomorrow, because it's going to be 6 to 8, bro. I'm bringing my longboard, 6 to 8. If it's anything like today, it's going to be fantastic. Dude, I'm just going to bring my longboard, fucking show up at his house, drop the longboard if I have to, and just keep cruising, go to Irvine or some shit after that, because shit was amazing.
I had a morning surf session at Swami's, starting a bit later than intended around 6:20 am and getting into the water by 6:50 am for an hour-long surf until the tide came in. Observing a girl tripping over the rocks offered a cautionary glimpse of the challenging conditions, which proved true as several surfers were washed down the beach later. Carefully monitoring the waves, I managed to avoid getting swept against the rocks, unlike one surfer whose leash tangled, while another provided me with helpful advice on board positioning. The session was enjoyable with consistent four to five-foot waves, sometimes reaching six or seven feet, indicating my board's suitability for good wave conditions and its maneuverability.
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The surfer had a somewhat disappointing day at Swami's, despite getting out early and having two boards with him. He decided to surf with the longboard and without a leash, which turned out to be a bad move as the surf was mixed up and not suitable for a longboard. He struggled to hold onto his board during a big set, losing it several times. He took some rough falls and learned the hard way that it was a mistake to go out without a leash. Despite the challenging conditions, he still considered it a decent day because any day that allows him to surf is a good day.
After initially hesitating due to poor conditions seen on the cams, the speaker decided to go surfing at Sunset Cliffs and ended up having a great day with good waves and few people. They were pleased with their decision as they experienced perfect offshore winds and a low tide. The speaker had fun meeting people, including someone named Chris playing reggae from a van, and also saw a familiar face, Brian. Despite the speaker's phone frequently stopping during voice memo recordings, their morning was described as truly pleasant and enjoyable.
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Today yielded perfect waves and a solid surf session, but the challenge was the crowded conditions and a closed parking lot. The surfer is feeling exhausted after potentially surfing six out of the last seven days, and plans to rest and get a tetanus shot due to a scrape. They're also becoming more familiar with the local surf community, having met and conversed with several people in the lineup. Despite being tired and facing competition for waves, the surfer still had a satisfying outing, maneuvering around others and catching a particularly memorable right wave.
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I just had an amazing surf session at Sunset Cliffs with really solid-sized waves ranging from four to eight feet. The conditions were pretty good, though the sets were inconsistent. When they did come, the waves were great. I spent an enjoyable hour and a half on my longboard and I'm glad I pushed myself to get out of bed and make it to the beach. Totally worth it and I'm feeling stoked. Planning to relax tomorrow, not sure about Friday, but Saturday is definitely going to be epic. I'm pumped for it.