Comment: Surfing sunset cliffs fun
Transcript: It's really interesting. My phone stops recording these voice memos often. Now, I don't know if it's a problem with the phone or not, but anyway, I surf sunset cliffs. Um, I woke up at six. I did not get out of bed till six 20, which is okay. Um, at least I didn't fall back asleep. Um, but I was mostly debating whether to go surf or not, because like I was looking at the cams and it looked pretty bad. Um, but I, I decided like probably best to just go and check it out myself and, and go from there. Um, and I went and it was a good day. Honestly, I was stoked cause no one was really out and it looked great. Um, like the first wave I saw, it was like this perfect a frame. So, and it must've been like a five foot wave, but most, mostly today was like a four foot day. And just, you know, met a couple of people out there, had a good time. Um, cruised around, caught a lot of laughs. Um, yeah, just, it was a, it was a fun morning and offshore winds. It was really good. So plus the low tide, it was basically like a perfect morning in a lot of senses, um, and very little people. So, uh, really, really, really, really pleasant morning. Um, I saw Brian and I met Chris and it's always, it's always nice to see Brian and just say, what's up. Um, and Chris was this guy with a van who was playing reggae. My light is, um, so yeah, that was, that was sick.
The surfer had an incredible day out on the waves, despite initially expecting poor conditions. They made a quick decision to head out after checking the camera. The waves turned out to be amazing, with the surfer enjoying numerous exhilarating rides, including a particularly memorable one towards the end. They also mentioned plans to surf with a friend the next day and expressed enthusiasm for the anticipated 6 to 8-foot waves. Despite the intense physical activity, the surfer felt strong and barely experienced any discomfort.
I had a morning surf session at Swami's, starting a bit later than intended around 6:20 am and getting into the water by 6:50 am for an hour-long surf until the tide came in. Observing a girl tripping over the rocks offered a cautionary glimpse of the challenging conditions, which proved true as several surfers were washed down the beach later. Carefully monitoring the waves, I managed to avoid getting swept against the rocks, unlike one surfer whose leash tangled, while another provided me with helpful advice on board positioning. The session was enjoyable with consistent four to five-foot waves, sometimes reaching six or seven feet, indicating my board's suitability for good wave conditions and its maneuverability.
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Today I decided to surf at Sunset Cliffs, initially underwhelmed by the apparent poor surf conditions. However, once out in the water, the waves proved to be unexpectedly steep and challenging, making for an exciting session. I met a few surfers, including someone named Brian, all of us on shorter boards, catching waves and occasionally wiping out. Despite the struggles with some powerful sets and an intense paddling experience, I managed to catch a particularly large, thrilling wave, turning the session into a memorable one despite the ocean's humbling force.
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Today yielded perfect waves and a solid surf session, but the challenge was the crowded conditions and a closed parking lot. The surfer is feeling exhausted after potentially surfing six out of the last seven days, and plans to rest and get a tetanus shot due to a scrape. They're also becoming more familiar with the local surf community, having met and conversed with several people in the lineup. Despite being tired and facing competition for waves, the surfer still had a satisfying outing, maneuvering around others and catching a particularly memorable right wave.
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I just had an amazing surf session at Sunset Cliffs with really solid-sized waves ranging from four to eight feet. The conditions were pretty good, though the sets were inconsistent. When they did come, the waves were great. I spent an enjoyable hour and a half on my longboard and I'm glad I pushed myself to get out of bed and make it to the beach. Totally worth it and I'm feeling stoked. Planning to relax tomorrow, not sure about Friday, but Saturday is definitely going to be epic. I'm pumped for it.
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The text provides details about a long walk taken by the speaker, covering approximately seven miles, with a route that included both trails in the neighborhood and back streets and alleys. The speaker expresses a preference for the diversity and unpredictability of alleys compared to paved streets, highlighting the organic shapes and structures found there. Overall, the walk improved the speaker's mood, and they reflect on the positive effects of movement. The speaker also mentions the possibility of doing more work and appreciating the sunset.
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