Transcript: So another good day of surf. Today was a solid day. I mean the waves are effectively perfect. The problem is getting out there at 630. It was crowded. It was really really crowded. The parking lot was also closed, so I had to park on the street. I barely wanted to get out of bed this morning. My body is telling me like I need rest. I really probably need to stretch tonight. And take it fairly easy. Realistically, I'm just, my body I think is exhausted. I don't know how many days on of surfing I've had. I bet it's five, and I bet I've surfed six of the last seven days. So I think tomorrow I need a break. I'm gonna get a tetanus shot because I scraped my hand on some rusty stuff yesterday. And my shot is pretty old, so I think that'll be a good opportunity for me to take a break. And if there's waves Wednesday, like fantastic. And if there's not, I'm gonna go climb. So yeah, it was nice. It was like solid five foot, I would say, on average. Saw Chi out there. Saw, I met Jerry, who I see quite often out there, and talked to him for a bit, which was really nice. I'm starting to get to know more people, get acquainted with the lineup. That's cool. There's another girl, I didn't, I don't know her name. I think it was Emma, but we talked for a minute and surfed. So overall, like, pretty, pretty nice day. Pretty good conditions. It was just busy to start, and then eventually, like, the crowd thinned out and caught a couple solid waves. Before that, I was kind of catching just, like, pretty mediocre waves. Some of it was being tired, and some of it was like, I don't want to compete with people today. Too tired to deal with that shit. So yeah, it's nice. Solid session. Happy to meet and talk to folks. Just enjoy the water, you know. So, yeah, caught one really deep right, which was a fantastic wave. Had to avoid some bodies on the inside a few times today. It's really the first time I've truly had to maneuver and think about other people, which is interesting. I guess I'm getting good enough where I have to think about other people now, which is cool. Yeah, so solid.
I had a morning surf session at Swami's, starting a bit later than intended around 6:20 am and getting into the water by 6:50 am for an hour-long surf until the tide came in. Observing a girl tripping over the rocks offered a cautionary glimpse of the challenging conditions, which proved true as several surfers were washed down the beach later. Carefully monitoring the waves, I managed to avoid getting swept against the rocks, unlike one surfer whose leash tangled, while another provided me with helpful advice on board positioning. The session was enjoyable with consistent four to five-foot waves, sometimes reaching six or seven feet, indicating my board's suitability for good wave conditions and its maneuverability.
Today marked another fantastic surf session, this time during a sunset class. It was my third consecutive day surfing, but this session was a bit shorter, lasting around an hour and twenty minutes. I exhausted myself in the initial stages, primarily because the waves were consistent, not necessarily larger than before but incredibly steady. Despite occasional breaks, the session was intense—paddle, wave, paddle, wave, with a bit more wind adding to a progressively choppier sea over these days. I caught an insanely memorable wave, one I barely managed to ride, leading to an exhilarating 200-meter journey down its face on a longboard. Although I misjudged my speed towards the end, it was still the highlight of my day. Reflecting on my surfing approach, I realized I've been overly bold, almost as if I wasn't using a leash, which is something I'll adjust moving forward. Meanwhile, outside of surfing, there was a peculiar incident on the road involving another driver and police blocking the path ahead, but I managed to avoid any trouble. With my body feeling the toll of consecutive surfing days, I'm looking forward to a bit of rest and have plans to visit the Monk with friends. Additionally, I need to sort out whether Ryan can pick up some food for Moose or if I'll need to handle it. All in all, today was about balancing my passion for surfing with daily responsibilities and the need for rest, especially as the earlier sunsets are starting to impact my work schedule.
The surfer had an incredible day out on the waves, despite initially expecting poor conditions. They made a quick decision to head out after checking the camera. The waves turned out to be amazing, with the surfer enjoying numerous exhilarating rides, including a particularly memorable one towards the end. They also mentioned plans to surf with a friend the next day and expressed enthusiasm for the anticipated 6 to 8-foot waves. Despite the intense physical activity, the surfer felt strong and barely experienced any discomfort.
The surfer caught several perfect waves back-to-back at Swami's, starting with a small insider followed by a six-foot wave that was an absolute blast. The conditions changed as the tide came in, making the waves mushier, which combined with the crowdedness, prompted the surfer to move to a different spot called Boneyards. At Boneyards, the surfer gave a good wave to a girl he met and then caught two amazing rights, noticing fewer surfers there compared to Swami's. Eventually, after the shoulder pain started, the surfer took a final wave in, completing a day of beautiful surfing with light winds and nice surface texture.
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I started surfing at North Garbage but quickly moved to South Garbage due to the better waves and less crowded conditions. While paddling out, I had a close call with another surfer who yelled at me; I apologized, but he continued to be aggressive, suggesting I should leave the water. Despite the unpleasant encounter, I caught around 50 waves, including some impressive ones that others weren't attempting. Overall, it was a solid surfing day with good conditions and a chance to get used to my new board.