Transcript: So another good day of surf. Today was a solid day. I mean the waves are effectively perfect. The problem is getting out there at 630. It was crowded. It was really really crowded. The parking lot was also closed, so I had to park on the street. I barely wanted to get out of bed this morning. My body is telling me like I need rest. I really probably need to stretch tonight. And take it fairly easy. Realistically, I'm just, my body I think is exhausted. I don't know how many days on of surfing I've had. I bet it's five, and I bet I've surfed six of the last seven days. So I think tomorrow I need a break. I'm gonna get a tetanus shot because I scraped my hand on some rusty stuff yesterday. And my shot is pretty old, so I think that'll be a good opportunity for me to take a break. And if there's waves Wednesday, like fantastic. And if there's not, I'm gonna go climb. So yeah, it was nice. It was like solid five foot, I would say, on average. Saw Chi out there. Saw, I met Jerry, who I see quite often out there, and talked to him for a bit, which was really nice. I'm starting to get to know more people, get acquainted with the lineup. That's cool. There's another girl, I didn't, I don't know her name. I think it was Emma, but we talked for a minute and surfed. So overall, like, pretty, pretty nice day. Pretty good conditions. It was just busy to start, and then eventually, like, the crowd thinned out and caught a couple solid waves. Before that, I was kind of catching just, like, pretty mediocre waves. Some of it was being tired, and some of it was like, I don't want to compete with people today. Too tired to deal with that shit. So yeah, it's nice. Solid session. Happy to meet and talk to folks. Just enjoy the water, you know. So, yeah, caught one really deep right, which was a fantastic wave. Had to avoid some bodies on the inside a few times today. It's really the first time I've truly had to maneuver and think about other people, which is interesting. I guess I'm getting good enough where I have to think about other people now, which is cool. Yeah, so solid.
I had a morning surf session at Swami's, starting a bit later than intended around 6:20 am and getting into the water by 6:50 am for an hour-long surf until the tide came in. Observing a girl tripping over the rocks offered a cautionary glimpse of the challenging conditions, which proved true as several surfers were washed down the beach later. Carefully monitoring the waves, I managed to avoid getting swept against the rocks, unlike one surfer whose leash tangled, while another provided me with helpful advice on board positioning. The session was enjoyable with consistent four to five-foot waves, sometimes reaching six or seven feet, indicating my board's suitability for good wave conditions and its maneuverability.
The surfer had an incredible day out on the waves, despite initially expecting poor conditions. They made a quick decision to head out after checking the camera. The waves turned out to be amazing, with the surfer enjoying numerous exhilarating rides, including a particularly memorable one towards the end. They also mentioned plans to surf with a friend the next day and expressed enthusiasm for the anticipated 6 to 8-foot waves. Despite the intense physical activity, the surfer felt strong and barely experienced any discomfort.
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I started surfing at North Garbage but quickly moved to South Garbage due to the better waves and less crowded conditions. While paddling out, I had a close call with another surfer who yelled at me; I apologized, but he continued to be aggressive, suggesting I should leave the water. Despite the unpleasant encounter, I caught around 50 waves, including some impressive ones that others weren't attempting. Overall, it was a solid surfing day with good conditions and a chance to get used to my new board.
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I just had an amazing surf session at Sunset Cliffs with really solid-sized waves ranging from four to eight feet. The conditions were pretty good, though the sets were inconsistent. When they did come, the waves were great. I spent an enjoyable hour and a half on my longboard and I'm glad I pushed myself to get out of bed and make it to the beach. Totally worth it and I'm feeling stoked. Planning to relax tomorrow, not sure about Friday, but Saturday is definitely going to be epic. I'm pumped for it.
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The speaker had a challenging morning surfing in heavy waves, almost getting barreled a few times but mostly getting crushed by the waves. Despite the tough conditions, they felt energized and determined to tackle their tasks and make decisions. The speaker expressed stress about money, considering buying a surger but unsure if it's feasible.