Comment: Anotha surf
Transcript: Oh, another good day at sunset class. It was a third day of a surf on an arrow. Today was a shorter session for me. It was about our 15 hour, 20 minutes. I tired myself out in the first, like 45 or 50 to be honest. The waves were just kind of pumping. Like, it was just very consistent. I wouldn't say it was any bigger than the last couple days. But it was extraordinarily consistent, extraordinarily consistent. Today, a few couple minute breaks, but that was really it. It was just like paddle wave, paddle wave the whole time. I'd say a little wind today, a little chopper. It's gotten progressively chopper over three days. But still solid size. I mean, I would say there's those occasional eight foot, but last so today. But more of the five or six foot consistent waves caught an absolutely crazy ride. One that I almost didn't think I was going to catch. And then I did catch it. And it was just open face. It was just face for like, I mean, at least 200 meters is what it felt like. Like I was just pumping down the face of this wave on a long board. And eventually I kind of ran out of the wave and I tried to come back, but I lost too much speed. I made that decision a little too late. But overall, I mean, a great way that was way of the day for sure, even though I messed it up a bit. Some other good waves today, I think overall I was just like going a little too hard. I think over the last couple days, I've been surfing more as if I didn't have a leash with me. And today I definitely was just hucking the board into waves a little careless way. So definitely learned the lesson of like, almost should be surfing without a leash and being careful to what the fuck. This person just indicated to the left, then decided they didn't want to go left in water. Just like, bro, what are you doing? Look, look, fogged. There's police blocking the road up ahead of me. So we're gonna avoid that. Yeah, so I mean, that was surfing in a nutshell. Yeah, I mean, just saw the day tired though. Really, my body is exhausted from all this fucking surfing. Tomorrow would be good. Go to the Monk and then my assumed we'll go to the Monk with John O'er Alexa's dad and John. And then, yeah, I mean, tonight I need to figure out what deal is with Ryan. If she can pick up most otherwise I need to go get most food from the house. So yeah, I mean, I guess that's main things. I will have this call a day. And then, yeah, decide on Moose food. What to do there. And just some random reflection, like, because the sun is going down much earlier now, it's really affecting how my work days are, which is interesting. Meaning I probably have to get up earlier to do the same amount. And my body is really needing rest.
Another exhausting day of surfing left the writer's body feeling drained, especially the shoulders. The session, however, was enjoyable and unique due to the foggy conditions, creating a beautiful light rainbow effect. Despite slow starts and some funky waves, the waves were better than recent sessions, allowing for good maneuvers. Post-surf, the writer plans to relax, shower, and run errands, including a stop at the co-op and possibly the water store. Surfing's physical toll is evident, and the writer contemplates the need for a different exercise routine and more stretching.
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Today yielded perfect waves and a solid surf session, but the challenge was the crowded conditions and a closed parking lot. The surfer is feeling exhausted after potentially surfing six out of the last seven days, and plans to rest and get a tetanus shot due to a scrape. They're also becoming more familiar with the local surf community, having met and conversed with several people in the lineup. Despite being tired and facing competition for waves, the surfer still had a satisfying outing, maneuvering around others and catching a particularly memorable right wave.
The surfer had an incredible day out on the waves, despite initially expecting poor conditions. They made a quick decision to head out after checking the camera. The waves turned out to be amazing, with the surfer enjoying numerous exhilarating rides, including a particularly memorable one towards the end. They also mentioned plans to surf with a friend the next day and expressed enthusiasm for the anticipated 6 to 8-foot waves. Despite the intense physical activity, the surfer felt strong and barely experienced any discomfort.
I had a morning surf session at Swami's, starting a bit later than intended around 6:20 am and getting into the water by 6:50 am for an hour-long surf until the tide came in. Observing a girl tripping over the rocks offered a cautionary glimpse of the challenging conditions, which proved true as several surfers were washed down the beach later. Carefully monitoring the waves, I managed to avoid getting swept against the rocks, unlike one surfer whose leash tangled, while another provided me with helpful advice on board positioning. The session was enjoyable with consistent four to five-foot waves, sometimes reaching six or seven feet, indicating my board's suitability for good wave conditions and its maneuverability.
The surfer caught several perfect waves back-to-back at Swami's, starting with a small insider followed by a six-foot wave that was an absolute blast. The conditions changed as the tide came in, making the waves mushier, which combined with the crowdedness, prompted the surfer to move to a different spot called Boneyards. At Boneyards, the surfer gave a good wave to a girl he met and then caught two amazing rights, noticing fewer surfers there compared to Swami's. Eventually, after the shoulder pain started, the surfer took a final wave in, completing a day of beautiful surfing with light winds and nice surface texture.