"Sunset Surf Session: Balancing Passion and Responsibility"
Oct 15, 2024 - 2:36pmSummary: Today marked another fantastic surf session, this time during a sunset class. It was my third consecutive day surfing, but this session was a bit shorter, lasting around an hour and twenty minutes. I exhausted myself in the initial stages, primarily because the waves were consistent, not necessarily larger than before but incredibly steady. Despite occasional breaks, the session was intense—paddle, wave, paddle, wave, with a bit more wind adding to a progressively choppier sea over these days. I caught an insanely memorable wave, one I barely managed to ride, leading to an exhilarating 200-meter journey down its face on a longboard. Although I misjudged my speed towards the end, it was still the highlight of my day. Reflecting on my surfing approach, I realized I've been overly bold, almost as if I wasn't using a leash, which is something I'll adjust moving forward. Meanwhile, outside of surfing, there was a peculiar incident on the road involving another driver and police blocking the path ahead, but I managed to avoid any trouble. With my body feeling the toll of consecutive surfing days, I'm looking forward to a bit of rest and have plans to visit the Monk with friends. Additionally, I need to sort out whether Ryan can pick up some food for Moose or if I'll need to handle it. All in all, today was about balancing my passion for surfing with daily responsibilities and the need for rest, especially as the earlier sunsets are starting to impact my work schedule.Comment: Anotha surf
Transcript: Oh, another good day at sunset class. It was a third day of a surf on an arrow. Today was a shorter session for me. It was about our 15 hour, 20 minutes. I tired myself out in the first, like 45 or 50 to be honest. The waves were just kind of pumping. Like, it was just very consistent. I wouldn't say it was any bigger than the last couple days. But it was extraordinarily consistent, extraordinarily consistent. Today, a few couple minute breaks, but that was really it. It was just like paddle wave, paddle wave the whole time. I'd say a little wind today, a little chopper. It's gotten progressively chopper over three days. But still solid size. I mean, I would say there's those occasional eight foot, but last so today. But more of the five or six foot consistent waves caught an absolutely crazy ride. One that I almost didn't think I was going to catch. And then I did catch it. And it was just open face. It was just face for like, I mean, at least 200 meters is what it felt like. Like I was just pumping down the face of this wave on a long board. And eventually I kind of ran out of the wave and I tried to come back, but I lost too much speed. I made that decision a little too late. But overall, I mean, a great way that was way of the day for sure, even though I messed it up a bit. Some other good waves today, I think overall I was just like going a little too hard. I think over the last couple days, I've been surfing more as if I didn't have a leash with me. And today I definitely was just hucking the board into waves a little careless way. So definitely learned the lesson of like, almost should be surfing without a leash and being careful to what the fuck. This person just indicated to the left, then decided they didn't want to go left in water. Just like, bro, what are you doing? Look, look, fogged. There's police blocking the road up ahead of me. So we're gonna avoid that. Yeah, so I mean, that was surfing in a nutshell. Yeah, I mean, just saw the day tired though. Really, my body is exhausted from all this fucking surfing. Tomorrow would be good. Go to the Monk and then my assumed we'll go to the Monk with John O'er Alexa's dad and John. And then, yeah, I mean, tonight I need to figure out what deal is with Ryan. If she can pick up most otherwise I need to go get most food from the house. So yeah, I mean, I guess that's main things. I will have this call a day. And then, yeah, decide on Moose food. What to do there. And just some random reflection, like, because the sun is going down much earlier now, it's really affecting how my work days are, which is interesting. Meaning I probably have to get up earlier to do the same amount. And my body is really needing rest.
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