Transcript: So I just got done surfing at Sunset Cliffs. And I initially started at, I guess, North Garbage. And then I paddled over to South Garbage quite quickly after, mostly because all the people at North didn't really seem like they knew what they were doing. And they were all kind of in the way, basically. And then I paddled over South. Also, the wave was looking better, generally speaking. So I paddled over to South Garbage. And I took one wave in the solid. And then I was paddling back out, trying to avoid a guy who was taking a wave. Dude almost runs me over. And then he yells at me for being in his way. And I love to have footage of it. I'm actually not sure who's in the right and wrong. Personally, I do think I'm a, I still think I made the right decision. Like, I would have made that decision at Swami's. And I wouldn't have gotten even close to hit. Like, dude should have done, he should have hit his bottom turn because he looked like he was going to hit his bottom turn. And then he missed it. And then he slowly rose up to the top and tried to do a top turn. But that's when he was almost hitting me. He's like, bro, there's no way you're going to do that top turn. So anyway, he yelled at me. And he's like, you should go home and get the fuck out of the water. And I was like, damn, that's a lot. And it just raised my heart rate and made me kind of angry. And I was just there to catch waves and have a good time. I'm not, like, I literally would rather him hit the top turn and me not be in the way. Like, that is literally what I want. Like, I'm stoked for everyone to be surfing. And I want you to surf as good as you can. And I'm trying to get out of your way. And like, you know, I told him, like, I fucked up. I don't know what else I can say. Like, if I was in the wrong, like, yeah, I'm sorry. Like, I legitimately did not mean to be in the way. And if I was, again, like, that's my bad. But some people just can't take that for an answer. Like, they got to, like, school you or tell you to get the fuck out of the water. It's like, come on, man. But outside of that, like, I probably ended up catching, like, 50 waves today, including some, like, pretty solid bombs that no one else was even trying to take. So I felt pretty good about the day at the end. And it was just a bummer. And then there was some other guy on the peak who was also yelling at some other guy that he's a pussy because he wears a leash or something. Like, I don't even know. It seems like they had beef from another day. Like, a previous day, they got into some beef. Like, one guy stole another guy's wave or something. And this guy's still yelling about it. I'm like, Jesus Christ, these people need to grow the fuck up. This is crazy. Like, bro, it's one wave. Get over it. You know how many waves there were today? You know how many waves I caught today? Like, I'm sorry that I fucked you on one wave. Like, that's my bad. But there's literally so many goddamn waves out there today. Don't stress, my friends. It's all good. It's all good. I wasn't even in position when I was catching so many waves. So whatever, man. I had a blast outside of this guy. And then I saw Brian there at the end. And I almost caught a bomb. And he almost saw me take this bomb. And then there was two people on the inside that I was just going to straight up kill. If I missed it, they're going to die for sure. So I decided, like, no way. I'm not going on that. Like, I'm not confident enough to do that. So, but overall, it was solid. It was like five foot, six foot down, probably. Bombs coming through, like, maybe seven foot. But it was solid. There was, like, no wind. If anything, it was, like, almost offshore wind, which it said it was going to be onshore wind. But, like, there's basically no texture on the water, if anything's light offshore. Yeah, it was a solid, solid day. I'm really happy. And getting a feel for the new board, too, which is cool.
I had a morning surf session at Swami's, starting a bit later than intended around 6:20 am and getting into the water by 6:50 am for an hour-long surf until the tide came in. Observing a girl tripping over the rocks offered a cautionary glimpse of the challenging conditions, which proved true as several surfers were washed down the beach later. Carefully monitoring the waves, I managed to avoid getting swept against the rocks, unlike one surfer whose leash tangled, while another provided me with helpful advice on board positioning. The session was enjoyable with consistent four to five-foot waves, sometimes reaching six or seven feet, indicating my board's suitability for good wave conditions and its maneuverability.
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Today yielded perfect waves and a solid surf session, but the challenge was the crowded conditions and a closed parking lot. The surfer is feeling exhausted after potentially surfing six out of the last seven days, and plans to rest and get a tetanus shot due to a scrape. They're also becoming more familiar with the local surf community, having met and conversed with several people in the lineup. Despite being tired and facing competition for waves, the surfer still had a satisfying outing, maneuvering around others and catching a particularly memorable right wave.
The surfer had an incredible day out on the waves, despite initially expecting poor conditions. They made a quick decision to head out after checking the camera. The waves turned out to be amazing, with the surfer enjoying numerous exhilarating rides, including a particularly memorable one towards the end. They also mentioned plans to surf with a friend the next day and expressed enthusiasm for the anticipated 6 to 8-foot waves. Despite the intense physical activity, the surfer felt strong and barely experienced any discomfort.
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The speaker reflects on the experience of surfing today, expressing a desire for technology to automatically provide contextual details like location and surf conditions. They describe the struggle of choosing a surf spot due to large swells, ultimately opting for a break called TORMO. However, upon entering the water, they realize the waves appear smaller than expected and the paddling distance is challenging. Despite the current pulling them southward, they persevere in their surfing experience. Sure, whether it's an entire book or a brief article, I'm happy to condense it down to its core message. Just share the text with me, and I'll summarize it in 4 sentences or fewer. The speaker recalls catching a wave and feeling elated as they successfully performed maneuvers similar to those on a long board. They caught one more wave but were tired from paddling out, which was intensified by the increasing number of inexperienced surfers. The speaker felt nervous for the less skilled surfers' safety and questioned their own abilities initially but gained confidence after catching multiple waves successfully. Overall, the speaker reflects on the enjoyment of the day's surfing experience.
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The surfer had a somewhat disappointing day at Swami's, despite getting out early and having two boards with him. He decided to surf with the longboard and without a leash, which turned out to be a bad move as the surf was mixed up and not suitable for a longboard. He struggled to hold onto his board during a big set, losing it several times. He took some rough falls and learned the hard way that it was a mistake to go out without a leash. Despite the challenging conditions, he still considered it a decent day because any day that allows him to surf is a good day.