Transcript: Another day at the cliffs. I am really tired. Holy hell. My body felt it immediately in the water. I think I really need to do a different kind of exercise. I've just been doing too much surfing. My shoulders are absolutely destroyed. Just so stiff. Probably need to stretch as well. That said. Yeah. Just tired. It was nice today. Foggy. First time I've ever really surfed in the fog like that. I mean maybe other than like blacks or something. But there's something about it that was just very interesting in the sun. There's kind of this like light rainbow the whole time that was kind of amazing. And yeah. Yeah. Just like a really nice thing. Nice session. It was pretty slow to start. So slow I actually ended up going to the even more north peak compared to north garbage. And surfing over there with a standout paddle boarder. And it was just the two of us for a minute. And then occasionally I would take a right back to north garbage beach. And then get a deep right from there basically. And then I would sit on the shoulder and not catch any waves. And then I'd go paddle all the way back to the north north peak. So it was good. But yeah. A lot of paddling. Tired. Some of the waves were kind of funky for a bit. Like hard to catch I'd say too. Like just a bit weird. So. Yeah. It was a good size. Like overhead on the biggest sets. Nothing too crazy. It was like. Honestly the waves were probably in some ways better than it has been the last couple. days that I've surfed. The corner was just holding up really nicely. You could. You know. Hit the right. And then cut back. Hit the right again. You know. Do that kind of thing. So. That was pretty nice. So yeah. Good session. I'm fucking tired though. I guess when I get home. I do need a second just to like relax and stuff I think. But. I probably. Yeah. I'm going to take a shower. And I guess I'll start sewing. It's going to be a while until I'm back home quite frankly. It's probably going to be past five. So. Yeah. That's just. Is what it is. I'm going to people's co-op right now. I don't particularly need any food. I'll probably pick up some bulk stuff. Yeah. Yeah. And then I guess I'm going to just keep running some errands. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. I don't know where my other water jug is. Did she take it? Um. Okay. So. Yeah. I'm going to run some more errands. My water jug must be in the car. Um. Yeah. And then I'm going to go get outside and then probably. Maybe stop at. Uh. The water lady. Store. And. Get water there. So. Yeah. But. Yeah. Just. A few things at the co-op. Uh. Boat. And. Yeah. Anything else that seems good. But yeah. I'm tired. Fucking surfing wipes you sometimes.
Today marked another fantastic surf session, this time during a sunset class. It was my third consecutive day surfing, but this session was a bit shorter, lasting around an hour and twenty minutes. I exhausted myself in the initial stages, primarily because the waves were consistent, not necessarily larger than before but incredibly steady. Despite occasional breaks, the session was intense—paddle, wave, paddle, wave, with a bit more wind adding to a progressively choppier sea over these days. I caught an insanely memorable wave, one I barely managed to ride, leading to an exhilarating 200-meter journey down its face on a longboard. Although I misjudged my speed towards the end, it was still the highlight of my day. Reflecting on my surfing approach, I realized I've been overly bold, almost as if I wasn't using a leash, which is something I'll adjust moving forward. Meanwhile, outside of surfing, there was a peculiar incident on the road involving another driver and police blocking the path ahead, but I managed to avoid any trouble. With my body feeling the toll of consecutive surfing days, I'm looking forward to a bit of rest and have plans to visit the Monk with friends. Additionally, I need to sort out whether Ryan can pick up some food for Moose or if I'll need to handle it. All in all, today was about balancing my passion for surfing with daily responsibilities and the need for rest, especially as the earlier sunsets are starting to impact my work schedule.
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Today yielded perfect waves and a solid surf session, but the challenge was the crowded conditions and a closed parking lot. The surfer is feeling exhausted after potentially surfing six out of the last seven days, and plans to rest and get a tetanus shot due to a scrape. They're also becoming more familiar with the local surf community, having met and conversed with several people in the lineup. Despite being tired and facing competition for waves, the surfer still had a satisfying outing, maneuvering around others and catching a particularly memorable right wave.
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The speaker had a challenging morning surfing in heavy waves, almost getting barreled a few times but mostly getting crushed by the waves. Despite the tough conditions, they felt energized and determined to tackle their tasks and make decisions. The speaker expressed stress about money, considering buying a surger but unsure if it's feasible.
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I had an incredible day surfing and engaging in community activities. Started off with a surf session at North Garbage, where I initially enjoyed the solitude until it got crowded. Managed to ride one of the wildest waves of my life, a complex maneuver that felt truly rewarding. Then, after an ambitious attempt at a 10-foot wave that ended in a spectacular wipeout, I decided to switch spots, moving to South Garbage as the crowd thickened and the waves grew more challenging. Realizing my energy was waning, I wrapped up the session and did a bit of environmental cleanup, picking up trash along the way out. After surfing, I caught up with Brian at Sunset Cliffs, learning he's now pursuing art full-time, which was inspiring. Our brief conversation was a pleasant catch-up on life and his new ventures into resin art. Earlier in the day, I volunteered at a CAF (Challenged Athletes Foundation) event, assisting with Mark's Wall and learning a lot about the complexities of setting up climbing systems for adaptive climbers. The event was overwhelming but rewarding, especially seeing climbers like one remarkable participant who successfully climbed despite significant limb differences. This experience and my time surfing underscored a day of physical exertion, learning, and meaningful social interactions, closing with the anticipation of enjoying an açaí bowl, a perfect end to a fulfilling day. I spent a long day working and finishing up some tasks for Josie before deciding it's time to take a break. It's 4 p.m., and I'm heading home with plans to grab an acai bowl and possibly prepare some burrito ingredients. I've been thinking about taking a break from computer-related work tomorrow and instead focusing on some personal tasks and home activities. I also plan to vote and maybe tackle those little things I've been putting off. Living near Sunset Cliffs is a highlight for me, especially with its proximity to my favorite bagel joint and other local spots like Obeys People's Market. I love the vibe of the area, and it's a great place for surfing. Now, I'm looking forward to enjoying my acai bowl and winding down for the day. And oh, I've got to get back to Josie. That's pretty much it for today.
You surfed for 2 hours and 20 minutes, ultimately feeling exhausted both physically and mentally. After almost hitting someone with your board, you decided to call it a day. Then, you met two people named Dan and Jen who wanted to buy your board but you declined. They mentioned they were going for a tandem bike ride, which added to the positivity of the weekend.