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The surfer had a somewhat disappointing day at Swami's, despite getting out early and having two boards with him. He decided to surf with the longboard and without a leash, which turned out to be a bad move as the surf was mixed up and not suitable for a longboard. He struggled to hold onto his board during a big set, losing it several times. He took some rough falls and learned the hard way that it was a mistake to go out without a leash. Despite the challenging conditions, he still considered it a decent day because any day that allows him to surf is a good day.

I had a morning surf session at Swami's, starting a bit later than intended around 6:20 am and getting into the water by 6:50 am for an hour-long surf until the tide came in. Observing a girl tripping over the rocks offered a cautionary glimpse of the challenging conditions, which proved true as several surfers were washed down the beach later. Carefully monitoring the waves, I managed to avoid getting swept against the rocks, unlike one surfer whose leash tangled, while another provided me with helpful advice on board positioning. The session was enjoyable with consistent four to five-foot waves, sometimes reaching six or seven feet, indicating my board's suitability for good wave conditions and its maneuverability.

The speaker had a challenging morning surfing in heavy waves, almost getting barreled a few times but mostly getting crushed by the waves. Despite the tough conditions, they felt energized and determined to tackle their tasks and make decisions. The speaker expressed stress about money, considering buying a surger but unsure if it's feasible.

Today yielded perfect waves and a solid surf session, but the challenge was the crowded conditions and a closed parking lot. The surfer is feeling exhausted after potentially surfing six out of the last seven days, and plans to rest and get a tetanus shot due to a scrape. They're also becoming more familiar with the local surf community, having met and conversed with several people in the lineup. Despite being tired and facing competition for waves, the surfer still had a satisfying outing, maneuvering around others and catching a particularly memorable right wave.

Another exhausting day of surfing left the writer's body feeling drained, especially the shoulders. The session, however, was enjoyable and unique due to the foggy conditions, creating a beautiful light rainbow effect. Despite slow starts and some funky waves, the waves were better than recent sessions, allowing for good maneuvers. Post-surf, the writer plans to relax, shower, and run errands, including a stop at the co-op and possibly the water store. Surfing's physical toll is evident, and the writer contemplates the need for a different exercise routine and more stretching.

"Winter Wave Warriors: Embracing the Cold for a Thrilling Surf Session"

"Riding the Waves: A Day of Fun and Friendship"

"Finding Fulfillment in Unexpected Conversations"

I fulfilled my 2024 goal of deepening relationships tonight. I rode my bike looking for puddles to splash in after the rain, but found none. Instead, I had a rewarding conversation with Claire and Sam at Ichiban. This interaction was very satisfying.

"Surfing, Sunshine, and Shared Smiles"

"Brushstrokes by the Shore: A Journey of Art and Friendship"