Transcript: Oh, man. Boop, boop, boop, boop. Surf report. Shit. You know, I guess I just surfed for, like, two and a half hours. So no wonder why I was fucking tired. It was interesting. I surfed North Garbage at first, partially because it was just fully empty. And it was just me initially. I got, like, a good wave. And then, like, five groms came out. And they were doing their thing. I was doing my thing. And it was totally cool. And then, like, fucking 15 people showed up all at the same time. And all of a sudden, it made it kind of weird. But right before that happened, I caught one of the fucking wildest waves of my life, which was some right. I paddled deep compared to everyone else. And I caught this wave. And it was a pretty steep start. And then it, like, flattened out quite significantly. And at some point, I thought I was almost going to lose the wave. But I knew it was going to peak up again. So I fucking sat down on my butt, on my board, to, like, at the front of the board, to put all of the weight there. I got back into the wave. And then I stood back up again and continued to ride the wave for another, like, 10 seconds. It was fucking sick. That was, like, definitely a favorite wave. And it's, yeah. And then the next wave I tried to catch was, like, a motherfucking 10-foot bomb. And I totally go down it, somehow make it. And then I totally get wrecked by this action. But, you know, at least we made the drop. It was pretty dicey. And there was some guy watching me. And I'm pretty sure he was like, what the fuck? This guy just took this longboard down that face. But, yeah, at some point, I was like, there's so many people. I'm going to go over to paddle to north. So I paddled to north or south garbage. And, I mean, it was good. It was getting big, though. Like, honestly, it was getting bigger and bigger the longer I stayed out there. And at some point I realized, like, my surfing was getting really sloppy, probably because I was tired. And I was just paddling and getting just my arms absolutely wrecked by paddling that much. So at some point I decided that north or south garbage was enough. And I paddled in and picked up some trash on the way out. And I saw Brian there. And I met Lauren. And it was nice to just talk with them for a brief moment. And, yeah, catching up with Brian is always good. It's always great seeing him at Sunset Cliffs, you know. It's such a classic place to see Brian. So that was cool. And we talked a little bit about just, like, you know, life and catching up and whatever else. So it sounds like he's doing art full time, which is fucking awesome. I'm really stoked for him. Resin art stuff. So, yeah. I mean, I'm going to get an acai bowl. I went to the CAF event this morning and helped with Mark's Wall. And met Wes and so many fucking ropes and systems and stuff. And, yeah, I mean, just, like, for me, it was good. It was kind of overwhelming because there's just so many different ways to set up systems and things. So, but I also was the person there to receive it. So, there's that. So, yeah. I mean, everything worked out. I think, you know, seeing people like Wes also gives me confidence. And the more you show up, the more you learn and the more, you know, whatever. Like, today was a big learning moment for a lot of the systems for adaptive climbers. And this guy, the hero, he was, had limb differences. All of his limbs were different in some way. One of his legs was amputated, it looked like. The other leg had, like, part of a foot but was very abnormal. I don't know how else to describe, just a different limb. And one of his hands had three fingers. And the other hand, he didn't have at all. I think he just had a stub. with a little nubbin on it. I don't know what else you would call it, but yeah. I mean, that was good. It was a lot of hours, but overall, it was nice to do that, and now it's 4 p.m. I'm heading home, going to grab an acai bowl, and I don't know. I guess I'm going to take a look at burrito stuff. I've fixed whatever outstanding bugs there are for Josie, and then I don't know. Maybe I need to not do computer stuff. I think that's what needs to happen is I have tomorrow to do that. I have all day tomorrow. I can focus in all day tomorrow to do that, whether I want to start with Mozilla stuff or not. I think it would be good for me to just do stuff around the home, and after doing stuff around the home, making sure to vote, and, yeah, like all these just like random things that maybe I won't do during the week. So, seems like probably a good time to do it if I really want to just focus during the week and make that time to do that during the week. So, yeah, I mean, that's kind of what's up. And, wow, how amazing is it that that acai place is like next to the fucking bagel joint? Fucking love that bagel joint. Um, yeah, of course it is. I just love this. I love Sunset Cliffs. Sunset Cliffs is just the shit. I love surfing there. Obeys People's Markets there. There's the bagel place. There's just so much. And it's really great. So, yeah. I mean, that's pretty much what's going down. And I'm gonna go get an acai bowl now and kind of call it a day and do what I just said. So, that's what we're gonna do. And I need to respond to Josie. So, yeah. Thank you.
90.06% similar
I started surfing at North Garbage but quickly moved to South Garbage due to the better waves and less crowded conditions. While paddling out, I had a close call with another surfer who yelled at me; I apologized, but he continued to be aggressive, suggesting I should leave the water. Despite the unpleasant encounter, I caught around 50 waves, including some impressive ones that others weren't attempting. Overall, it was a solid surfing day with good conditions and a chance to get used to my new board.
Another exhausting day of surfing left the writer's body feeling drained, especially the shoulders. The session, however, was enjoyable and unique due to the foggy conditions, creating a beautiful light rainbow effect. Despite slow starts and some funky waves, the waves were better than recent sessions, allowing for good maneuvers. Post-surf, the writer plans to relax, shower, and run errands, including a stop at the co-op and possibly the water store. Surfing's physical toll is evident, and the writer contemplates the need for a different exercise routine and more stretching.
Today marked another fantastic surf session, this time during a sunset class. It was my third consecutive day surfing, but this session was a bit shorter, lasting around an hour and twenty minutes. I exhausted myself in the initial stages, primarily because the waves were consistent, not necessarily larger than before but incredibly steady. Despite occasional breaks, the session was intense—paddle, wave, paddle, wave, with a bit more wind adding to a progressively choppier sea over these days. I caught an insanely memorable wave, one I barely managed to ride, leading to an exhilarating 200-meter journey down its face on a longboard. Although I misjudged my speed towards the end, it was still the highlight of my day. Reflecting on my surfing approach, I realized I've been overly bold, almost as if I wasn't using a leash, which is something I'll adjust moving forward. Meanwhile, outside of surfing, there was a peculiar incident on the road involving another driver and police blocking the path ahead, but I managed to avoid any trouble. With my body feeling the toll of consecutive surfing days, I'm looking forward to a bit of rest and have plans to visit the Monk with friends. Additionally, I need to sort out whether Ryan can pick up some food for Moose or if I'll need to handle it. All in all, today was about balancing my passion for surfing with daily responsibilities and the need for rest, especially as the earlier sunsets are starting to impact my work schedule.
89.59% similar
Today I decided to surf at Sunset Cliffs, initially underwhelmed by the apparent poor surf conditions. However, once out in the water, the waves proved to be unexpectedly steep and challenging, making for an exciting session. I met a few surfers, including someone named Brian, all of us on shorter boards, catching waves and occasionally wiping out. Despite the struggles with some powerful sets and an intense paddling experience, I managed to catch a particularly large, thrilling wave, turning the session into a memorable one despite the ocean's humbling force.
89.10% similar
This project serves as a reminder to be grateful, mostly because reflections revolve around things that bring happiness and gratitude, highlighting a positive default mindset. After a morning surf at Swami's with a longboard lent by Kyle, the experience was a mix of thrilling drops and spills, as well as an adjustment to the board's different feel and the technique required to maneuver it. The waves at Swami's were mellow enough to encourage trying without much fear, making the session enjoyable despite a few wipeouts. Despite the stormy conditions with wind and rain, the day turned out better than expected, providing mediocre to good waves for surfing, making it a pleasantly surprising day.