cj

"A Day of Waves, Community, and Reflection"

Transcript: Oh, man. Boop, boop, boop, boop. Surf report. Shit. You know, I guess I just surfed for, like, two and a half hours. So no wonder why I was fucking tired. It was interesting. I surfed North Garbage at first, partially because it was just fully empty. And it was just me initially. I got, like, a good wave. And then, like, five groms came out. And they were doing their thing. I was doing my thing. And it was totally cool. And then, like, fucking 15 people showed up all at the same time. And all of a sudden, it made it kind of weird. But right before that happened, I caught one of the fucking wildest waves of my life, which was some right. I paddled deep compared to everyone else. And I caught this wave. And it was a pretty steep start. And then it, like, flattened out quite significantly. And at some point, I thought I was almost going to lose the wave. But I knew it was going to peak up again. So I fucking sat down on my butt, on my board, to, like, at the front of the board, to put all of the weight there. I got back into the wave. And then I stood back up again and continued to ride the wave for another, like, 10 seconds. It was fucking sick. That was, like, definitely a favorite wave. And it's, yeah. And then the next wave I tried to catch was, like, a motherfucking 10-foot bomb. And I totally go down it, somehow make it. And then I totally get wrecked by this action. But, you know, at least we made the drop. It was pretty dicey. And there was some guy watching me. And I'm pretty sure he was like, what the fuck? This guy just took this longboard down that face. But, yeah, at some point, I was like, there's so many people. I'm going to go over to paddle to north. So I paddled to north or south garbage. And, I mean, it was good. It was getting big, though. Like, honestly, it was getting bigger and bigger the longer I stayed out there. And at some point I realized, like, my surfing was getting really sloppy, probably because I was tired. And I was just paddling and getting just my arms absolutely wrecked by paddling that much. So at some point I decided that north or south garbage was enough. And I paddled in and picked up some trash on the way out. And I saw Brian there. And I met Lauren. And it was nice to just talk with them for a brief moment. And, yeah, catching up with Brian is always good. It's always great seeing him at Sunset Cliffs, you know. It's such a classic place to see Brian. So that was cool. And we talked a little bit about just, like, you know, life and catching up and whatever else. So it sounds like he's doing art full time, which is fucking awesome. I'm really stoked for him. Resin art stuff. So, yeah. I mean, I'm going to get an acai bowl. I went to the CAF event this morning and helped with Mark's Wall. And met Wes and so many fucking ropes and systems and stuff. And, yeah, I mean, just, like, for me, it was good. It was kind of overwhelming because there's just so many different ways to set up systems and things. So, but I also was the person there to receive it. So, there's that. So, yeah. I mean, everything worked out. I think, you know, seeing people like Wes also gives me confidence. And the more you show up, the more you learn and the more, you know, whatever. Like, today was a big learning moment for a lot of the systems for adaptive climbers. And this guy, the hero, he was, had limb differences. All of his limbs were different in some way. One of his legs was amputated, it looked like. The other leg had, like, part of a foot but was very abnormal. I don't know how else to describe, just a different limb. And one of his hands had three fingers. And the other hand, he didn't have at all. I think he just had a stub. with a little nubbin on it. I don't know what else you would call it, but yeah. I mean, that was good. It was a lot of hours, but overall, it was nice to do that, and now it's 4 p.m. I'm heading home, going to grab an acai bowl, and I don't know. I guess I'm going to take a look at burrito stuff. I've fixed whatever outstanding bugs there are for Josie, and then I don't know. Maybe I need to not do computer stuff. I think that's what needs to happen is I have tomorrow to do that. I have all day tomorrow. I can focus in all day tomorrow to do that, whether I want to start with Mozilla stuff or not. I think it would be good for me to just do stuff around the home, and after doing stuff around the home, making sure to vote, and, yeah, like all these just like random things that maybe I won't do during the week. So, seems like probably a good time to do it if I really want to just focus during the week and make that time to do that during the week. So, yeah, I mean, that's kind of what's up. And, wow, how amazing is it that that acai place is like next to the fucking bagel joint? Fucking love that bagel joint. Um, yeah, of course it is. I just love this. I love Sunset Cliffs. Sunset Cliffs is just the shit. I love surfing there. Obeys People's Markets there. There's the bagel place. There's just so much. And it's really great. So, yeah. I mean, that's pretty much what's going down. And I'm gonna go get an acai bowl now and kind of call it a day and do what I just said. So, that's what we're gonna do. And I need to respond to Josie. So, yeah. Thank you.