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Surfing at Swamis: A Humbling and Wonderful Experience

Feb 18, 2024 - 12:38pmSummary: The user had a great time surfing at Swamis with Chandler. The waves were big, and the experience was described as humbling and wonderful. The colors in the water were vibrant and surreal, making it a unique experience. The user felt exhilarated by the challenging waves and enjoyed a California burrito for lunch. They plan to relax for the rest of the afternoon and may cook gnocchi for dinner. The user also mentioned wanting another cup of coffee to enjoy the experience.

Comment: Surf sesh at swamis with chandler. Plus lunch for the day and plans

Transcript: I just got done surfing Swamis with Chandler. And it was, I had a great time. It was big. Definitely like six to eight, occasional 10 to 12 coming through. Humbling experience and just a wonderful time. Like legitimately a wonderful time for me. The water was just unreal. Like the conditions for me couldn't have been better. Just absolutely no texture at all on the water. And I mean, it was psychedelic. Like it was just, it was unreal. The colors in the water. You had these reds and blues and it didn't even seem real that you could have that at the middle of the day kind of a thing. You might expect that at sunrise, but to get reds and pinks in the middle of the day, it's just something else. But. It was a really good time for me. And it like to put it into perspective, like getting blown up and paddling. Like there was the paddle simulator that we had to go through for a bit and caught a couple big ones, you know, and taking those drops and not being afraid really. Like some fear, but mostly like excitement. And that's really cool. It's almost like the paddle is the scarier part. And just. Just feeling generally solid. But yeah, I mean, seeing those 10 footers and like getting them put into perspective is really interesting. You know, like when you see a six or seven footer after that, it just feels like nothing. It feels like absolutely nothing. And normally that's something that you would surf, no question. So. Yeah, I don't know. Just like for me, an absolute wonderful experience and something that. Yeah, I'm so stoked. I'm so stoked. I'm just happy to be out there. So, yeah, I just don't know. It's just a wonderful, wonderful, beautiful day. I'm now just driving down the coast. So I also had Roberto's taco shop for lunch and I got a California burrito there. And that was nice. That was really nice. And I am excited to actually go have a meal at home later today. So. That's really cool. Maybe I'll cook the gnocchi tonight. That sounds like a good plan and go from there. But yeah, just a wonderful afternoon. Just going to drive down the coast and enjoy it and get home. And I don't know, probably so for a bit. Just relax and enjoy the rest of the Sunday. I think part of me. Wants to have another cup of coffee just because I want to have the experience of coffee. I just love the experience of coffee. So, yeah. Anyway, that's it for now.

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