Comment: Surf sesh at swamis with chandler. Plus lunch for the day and plans
Transcript: I just got done surfing Swamis with Chandler. And it was, I had a great time. It was big. Definitely like six to eight, occasional 10 to 12 coming through. Humbling experience and just a wonderful time. Like legitimately a wonderful time for me. The water was just unreal. Like the conditions for me couldn't have been better. Just absolutely no texture at all on the water. And I mean, it was psychedelic. Like it was just, it was unreal. The colors in the water. You had these reds and blues and it didn't even seem real that you could have that at the middle of the day kind of a thing. You might expect that at sunrise, but to get reds and pinks in the middle of the day, it's just something else. But. It was a really good time for me. And it like to put it into perspective, like getting blown up and paddling. Like there was the paddle simulator that we had to go through for a bit and caught a couple big ones, you know, and taking those drops and not being afraid really. Like some fear, but mostly like excitement. And that's really cool. It's almost like the paddle is the scarier part. And just. Just feeling generally solid. But yeah, I mean, seeing those 10 footers and like getting them put into perspective is really interesting. You know, like when you see a six or seven footer after that, it just feels like nothing. It feels like absolutely nothing. And normally that's something that you would surf, no question. So. Yeah, I don't know. Just like for me, an absolute wonderful experience and something that. Yeah, I'm so stoked. I'm so stoked. I'm just happy to be out there. So, yeah, I just don't know. It's just a wonderful, wonderful, beautiful day. I'm now just driving down the coast. So I also had Roberto's taco shop for lunch and I got a California burrito there. And that was nice. That was really nice. And I am excited to actually go have a meal at home later today. So. That's really cool. Maybe I'll cook the gnocchi tonight. That sounds like a good plan and go from there. But yeah, just a wonderful afternoon. Just going to drive down the coast and enjoy it and get home. And I don't know, probably so for a bit. Just relax and enjoy the rest of the Sunday. I think part of me. Wants to have another cup of coffee just because I want to have the experience of coffee. I just love the experience of coffee. So, yeah. Anyway, that's it for now.
I had a fun surf session at Swami's with decent, but not exceptional, waves and started off catching a solid one. I ran into Gregory, which made the time more enjoyable, as I usually catch a fair number of waves there. There was an incident with an overly aggressive surfer, which was disappointing; he was upset about someone dropping in on him even though it's a common occurrence at Swami's and the other surfer had signaled his intent. Overall, it was a good day, I got to see dolphins while leaving the water, and I spent my time chilling and singing acoustic melodies both in my head and out loud.
The surfer caught several perfect waves back-to-back at Swami's, starting with a small insider followed by a six-foot wave that was an absolute blast. The conditions changed as the tide came in, making the waves mushier, which combined with the crowdedness, prompted the surfer to move to a different spot called Boneyards. At Boneyards, the surfer gave a good wave to a girl he met and then caught two amazing rights, noticing fewer surfers there compared to Swami's. Eventually, after the shoulder pain started, the surfer took a final wave in, completing a day of beautiful surfing with light winds and nice surface texture.
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I enjoyed making breakfast tacos and surfing at Del Mar with Chandler, appreciating both the company and the activity after a long hiatus. The waves were relatively mellow at four to five feet, contributing to a serene surfing experience. The day brought a refreshing change of pace, focusing on writing and reflection rather than my usual building activities. Overall, it was a good and relaxed start to the morning with contemplation as the primary agenda for the day.
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This project serves as a reminder to be grateful, mostly because reflections revolve around things that bring happiness and gratitude, highlighting a positive default mindset. After a morning surf at Swami's with a longboard lent by Kyle, the experience was a mix of thrilling drops and spills, as well as an adjustment to the board's different feel and the technique required to maneuver it. The waves at Swami's were mellow enough to encourage trying without much fear, making the session enjoyable despite a few wipeouts. Despite the stormy conditions with wind and rain, the day turned out better than expected, providing mediocre to good waves for surfing, making it a pleasantly surprising day.