cj

This project serves as a reminder to be grateful, mostly because reflections revolve around things that bring happiness and gratitude, highlighting a positive default mindset. After a morning surf at Swami's with a longboard lent by Kyle, the experience was a mix of thrilling drops and spills, as well as an adjustment to the board's different feel and the technique required to maneuver it. The waves at Swami's were mellow enough to encourage trying without much fear, making the session enjoyable despite a few wipeouts. Despite the stormy conditions with wind and rain, the day turned out better than expected, providing mediocre to good waves for surfing, making it a pleasantly surprising day.

After driving to Ocean Beach (OB) to surf, I realized I forgot a towel and started debating whether to go into the water, especially since I didn't bring my longboard to Sunset Cliffs. Despite the amazing waves, I'm leaning toward going back home and possibly surfing later if I still feel like it. I contemplated borrowing a longboard from Kyle and patching it up for future use. Meanwhile, I had a pleasant encounter with Brian at Sunset Cliffs, and we caught up briefly, which was a highlight of the morning.

I had a pleasant dinner with my friend Kyle, although the Greek food at Hummus was greasy and not remarkable. Afterward, we walked to the beach, encountered an amazing drum circle, and discussed my work, which Kyle expressed an interest in trying, making me feel supported. Kyle imparted some wisdom, suggesting that sharing one's creations with others is the antidote to ego, which resonated with me and encouraged me to share my work. Along with this heartening experience, I enjoyed a simple, refreshing walk by myself earlier in the day, realizing that sometimes a walk is all I need rather than a nap.

The surfer had a somewhat disappointing day at Swami's, despite getting out early and having two boards with him. He decided to surf with the longboard and without a leash, which turned out to be a bad move as the surf was mixed up and not suitable for a longboard. He struggled to hold onto his board during a big set, losing it several times. He took some rough falls and learned the hard way that it was a mistake to go out without a leash. Despite the challenging conditions, he still considered it a decent day because any day that allows him to surf is a good day.

The speaker had a challenging morning surfing in heavy waves, almost getting barreled a few times but mostly getting crushed by the waves. Despite the tough conditions, they felt energized and determined to tackle their tasks and make decisions. The speaker expressed stress about money, considering buying a surger but unsure if it's feasible.