Transcript: Drove myself to OB to go surf this morning and forgot to bring a towel. I guess I could change, but I don't know, looking at the waves, I really just want my longboard because I'm at Sunset Cliffs right now because I was like, I didn't bring a towel. Like, how much do I really want to get in the water right now? Sunset Cliffs looks amazing, but I don't have a longboard, so basically I'm just making a bunch of excuses to not do the thing. Guess I could go back to OB and hop in the water for a bit. I don't have a towel, so I guess I would use something else to change, which is fine, but yeah, I don't know. I think I'm just going to go home, ride a bit, and I guess we can check out what's up later on today. If I really want to go surf, there's another opportunity to go surf. It's okay. So it's alright, and I might hit Kyle up to get his longboard and patch it up so I can go surf a longboard, so yeah. I also ran into Brian at Sunset Cliffs, which was nice to see. Just talked for a minute and catch up, and yeah, I'm stoked for him. The waves look great.
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After surfing at Ocean Beach (OB) for around 90 minutes, I found the conditions quite unusual due to the high tide causing unpredictable wave patterns. Most waves averaged three feet, with occasional larger sets reaching up to five feet, making for a mostly enjoyable session where I caught numerous waves on my longboard. Many surfers struggled with their board choice, but my longboard proved advantageous, allowing me to ride steeper waves confidently. Among the waves I caught, one standout was a right-hander, which I rode exceptionally well, giving me the thrill of shortboarding on a longboard.
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Today I decided to surf at Sunset Cliffs, initially underwhelmed by the apparent poor surf conditions. However, once out in the water, the waves proved to be unexpectedly steep and challenging, making for an exciting session. I met a few surfers, including someone named Brian, all of us on shorter boards, catching waves and occasionally wiping out. Despite the struggles with some powerful sets and an intense paddling experience, I managed to catch a particularly large, thrilling wave, turning the session into a memorable one despite the ocean's humbling force.
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The surfer had a somewhat disappointing day at Swami's, despite getting out early and having two boards with him. He decided to surf with the longboard and without a leash, which turned out to be a bad move as the surf was mixed up and not suitable for a longboard. He struggled to hold onto his board during a big set, losing it several times. He took some rough falls and learned the hard way that it was a mistake to go out without a leash. Despite the challenging conditions, he still considered it a decent day because any day that allows him to surf is a good day.
After initially hesitating due to poor conditions seen on the cams, the speaker decided to go surfing at Sunset Cliffs and ended up having a great day with good waves and few people. They were pleased with their decision as they experienced perfect offshore winds and a low tide. The speaker had fun meeting people, including someone named Chris playing reggae from a van, and also saw a familiar face, Brian. Despite the speaker's phone frequently stopping during voice memo recordings, their morning was described as truly pleasant and enjoyable.
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I just had an amazing surf session at Sunset Cliffs with really solid-sized waves ranging from four to eight feet. The conditions were pretty good, though the sets were inconsistent. When they did come, the waves were great. I spent an enjoyable hour and a half on my longboard and I'm glad I pushed myself to get out of bed and make it to the beach. Totally worth it and I'm feeling stoked. Planning to relax tomorrow, not sure about Friday, but Saturday is definitely going to be epic. I'm pumped for it.
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