Transcript: I also forgot to mention how amazing the sunrise was and the clouds today. Just out of this world, like, out of this world. Also, there was dolphins, like, a pod of 12 dolphins that passed through. Like, inches, inches away. Just unbelievable. Like, an unbelievable morning. I don't know how to overstate how amazing that was. Just incredible. Like, absolutely incredible. The deepest red in the sunset, or in the sunrise. The deepest red and pink, and it's, oh, so freaking good.
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The user had a great time surfing at Swamis with Chandler. The waves were big, and the experience was described as humbling and wonderful. The colors in the water were vibrant and surreal, making it a unique experience. The user felt exhilarated by the challenging waves and enjoyed a California burrito for lunch. They plan to relax for the rest of the afternoon and may cook gnocchi for dinner. The user also mentioned wanting another cup of coffee to enjoy the experience.
Had an incredible surfing session with stellar waves, catching around 20-30 solid ones, despite forgetting my leash and the low tide making the inside peaks dangerous. Didn’t see any dolphins, but the sunset was breathtaking, and it felt like a soul-healing experience. Moving my sister’s stuff was stressful, but the ocean restored my peace. Elbow’s not fully healed, but I’m stoked and hopeful to catch up tomorrow, either surfing or grabbing coffee. Love and gratitude.
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Today marked another fantastic surf session, this time during a sunset class. It was my third consecutive day surfing, but this session was a bit shorter, lasting around an hour and twenty minutes. I exhausted myself in the initial stages, primarily because the waves were consistent, not necessarily larger than before but incredibly steady. Despite occasional breaks, the session was intense—paddle, wave, paddle, wave, with a bit more wind adding to a progressively choppier sea over these days. I caught an insanely memorable wave, one I barely managed to ride, leading to an exhilarating 200-meter journey down its face on a longboard. Although I misjudged my speed towards the end, it was still the highlight of my day. Reflecting on my surfing approach, I realized I've been overly bold, almost as if I wasn't using a leash, which is something I'll adjust moving forward. Meanwhile, outside of surfing, there was a peculiar incident on the road involving another driver and police blocking the path ahead, but I managed to avoid any trouble. With my body feeling the toll of consecutive surfing days, I'm looking forward to a bit of rest and have plans to visit the Monk with friends. Additionally, I need to sort out whether Ryan can pick up some food for Moose or if I'll need to handle it. All in all, today was about balancing my passion for surfing with daily responsibilities and the need for rest, especially as the earlier sunsets are starting to impact my work schedule.
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