Transcript: Bro. Shit. Oh, fuck. The ocean surfing's so fun. You know, my dolphin count, unfortunately, was zero. But 75 to 100 dolphins is fucking nuts, dude. That's wild. The babe count was really high, but not the dolphin count. So, you know. But, bro. Sunset was unreal. It was so good. Just, like, I actually, like, got out of the water after the sunset. And then went back because I was just like, damn, the sunset's so good. I just want to, like, sit here for a moment. I appreciate it. And, like, say thank you to the ocean, you know. But waves were, like, waves were pretty stellar, honestly. Like, I probably caught, like, 20, 30, like, solid waves. And totally forgot my leash. Actually wanted my leash today. So I had to be, like, a little bit careful. Almost, like, ate it real hard on a few waves. But it was low tide. Super low tide. And because of that, the inside peaks up a lot. Like, almost, like, dangerously. So I could definitely get slammed into the reef. If you fuck up. Almost happened one time. And I was like, oh, shit. I got a bail earlier. But, yeah, dude. It was a good sesh. Like, smiles the whole way around. I, like, just after moving all of this shit from my sister and being home and, like, just needed to be in the ocean and enjoy. So I'm so psyched. That was, like, exactly what I needed in life. That, like, healed my soul immediately. And I'm so happy still. I'm just, like, smiling ear to ear. So, yeah, fucking great sesh. Also love to hear from you generally. So I'm so stoked that you saw all these dolphins. And, yeah, just let me know how it's doing. My elbow is not, like, 100% either. So, you know. You know, just let me know. And I'll be up in the morning. Just give me a text or later this evening what you're feeling so I can plan around. But, yeah, dog. Hope to see you tomorrow. You know, if it works out. And if not, honestly, like, if you want to, like, grab coffee or something, too, I'd be down. So, yeah. Cool, man. Well, I'll talk to you soon. Love you, dog. Thank you.
88.06% similar
I had an incredible day at the ocean, the waves were just phenomenal. It felt like hitting set clips all day, and I thrive in that. The crowd wasn't too heavy, only a few of us were really taking on the waves. They were averaging around six feet, occasionally peaking at eight feet. I managed to ride a couple of those bigger ones and felt truly in sync with my board, unlike with my other board that I just can't seem to get the hang of anymore. It was a day filled with exhilarating rides, fast cuts, and lip hits. Apart from the surfing, I also had the chance to help someone out by rescuing their board, which felt great. The conditions were perfect, no wind, just beautiful waves, making for an unforgettable session. The whole vibe, even outside the water, was so positive; people were kind, and I left the beach feeling extremely stoked. I'm already looking forward to tomorrow's session, expecting it to be just as epic, reminiscent of a fantastic day we once had, living up to all my expectations. So, yeah, totally stoked.
86.36% similar
I just had an amazing surf session at Sunset Cliffs with really solid-sized waves ranging from four to eight feet. The conditions were pretty good, though the sets were inconsistent. When they did come, the waves were great. I spent an enjoyable hour and a half on my longboard and I'm glad I pushed myself to get out of bed and make it to the beach. Totally worth it and I'm feeling stoked. Planning to relax tomorrow, not sure about Friday, but Saturday is definitely going to be epic. I'm pumped for it.
86.20% similar
Today I decided to surf at Sunset Cliffs, initially underwhelmed by the apparent poor surf conditions. However, once out in the water, the waves proved to be unexpectedly steep and challenging, making for an exciting session. I met a few surfers, including someone named Brian, all of us on shorter boards, catching waves and occasionally wiping out. Despite the struggles with some powerful sets and an intense paddling experience, I managed to catch a particularly large, thrilling wave, turning the session into a memorable one despite the ocean's humbling force.
Today marked another fantastic surf session, this time during a sunset class. It was my third consecutive day surfing, but this session was a bit shorter, lasting around an hour and twenty minutes. I exhausted myself in the initial stages, primarily because the waves were consistent, not necessarily larger than before but incredibly steady. Despite occasional breaks, the session was intense—paddle, wave, paddle, wave, with a bit more wind adding to a progressively choppier sea over these days. I caught an insanely memorable wave, one I barely managed to ride, leading to an exhilarating 200-meter journey down its face on a longboard. Although I misjudged my speed towards the end, it was still the highlight of my day. Reflecting on my surfing approach, I realized I've been overly bold, almost as if I wasn't using a leash, which is something I'll adjust moving forward. Meanwhile, outside of surfing, there was a peculiar incident on the road involving another driver and police blocking the path ahead, but I managed to avoid any trouble. With my body feeling the toll of consecutive surfing days, I'm looking forward to a bit of rest and have plans to visit the Monk with friends. Additionally, I need to sort out whether Ryan can pick up some food for Moose or if I'll need to handle it. All in all, today was about balancing my passion for surfing with daily responsibilities and the need for rest, especially as the earlier sunsets are starting to impact my work schedule.
The surfer caught several perfect waves back-to-back at Swami's, starting with a small insider followed by a six-foot wave that was an absolute blast. The conditions changed as the tide came in, making the waves mushier, which combined with the crowdedness, prompted the surfer to move to a different spot called Boneyards. At Boneyards, the surfer gave a good wave to a girl he met and then caught two amazing rights, noticing fewer surfers there compared to Swami's. Eventually, after the shoulder pain started, the surfer took a final wave in, completing a day of beautiful surfing with light winds and nice surface texture.