Transcript: Um, I also met, well, I've seen Amanda out there before. She has this blue Chris Ruddy board as well. Um, I guess it's somewhere around nine foot. I think the tail of our boards is the same. She's always out there smiling and having a good time. Um, but I met her today getting out of the water. Um, I mean, we talked a little bit in the water as she just had paddled out. She got out just before me, um, out of the water, but she got in like 30 or 40 or 50 minutes after me. So yeah, it was a short session for everyone. She said she caught only one wave. I only caught one wave really, really powerful. So much, so much speed on the wave. It was crazy.
You surfed for 2 hours and 20 minutes, ultimately feeling exhausted both physically and mentally. After almost hitting someone with your board, you decided to call it a day. Then, you met two people named Dan and Jen who wanted to buy your board but you declined. They mentioned they were going for a tandem bike ride, which added to the positivity of the weekend.
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The speaker reflects on the experience of surfing today, expressing a desire for technology to automatically provide contextual details like location and surf conditions. They describe the struggle of choosing a surf spot due to large swells, ultimately opting for a break called TORMO. However, upon entering the water, they realize the waves appear smaller than expected and the paddling distance is challenging. Despite the current pulling them southward, they persevere in their surfing experience. Sure, whether it's an entire book or a brief article, I'm happy to condense it down to its core message. Just share the text with me, and I'll summarize it in 4 sentences or fewer. The speaker recalls catching a wave and feeling elated as they successfully performed maneuvers similar to those on a long board. They caught one more wave but were tired from paddling out, which was intensified by the increasing number of inexperienced surfers. The speaker felt nervous for the less skilled surfers' safety and questioned their own abilities initially but gained confidence after catching multiple waves successfully. Overall, the speaker reflects on the enjoyment of the day's surfing experience.
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I met Chloe and got yelled at by Mark, which was a downer. Mark accused me of catching too many waves and not sharing with others, but I disagree. Even when I catch a wave, I make a point to kick out if someone is behind me. Overall, the surf was moderate, roughly four feet, and slow between sets.
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This morning, Chandler and I enjoyed a fun surfing session at Del Mar. Despite the small waves, we had a good time sharing stories and catching up. The highlight was spotting a whale, although it vanished before we could get close. Chandler also tried out my longboard and liked it. Overall, it was a pretty amazing morning.
The surfer caught several perfect waves back-to-back at Swami's, starting with a small insider followed by a six-foot wave that was an absolute blast. The conditions changed as the tide came in, making the waves mushier, which combined with the crowdedness, prompted the surfer to move to a different spot called Boneyards. At Boneyards, the surfer gave a good wave to a girl he met and then caught two amazing rights, noticing fewer surfers there compared to Swami's. Eventually, after the shoulder pain started, the surfer took a final wave in, completing a day of beautiful surfing with light winds and nice surface texture.
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I fulfilled my 2024 goal of deepening relationships tonight. I rode my bike looking for puddles to splash in after the rain, but found none. Instead, I had a rewarding conversation with Claire and Sam at Ichiban. This interaction was very satisfying.