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"Riding the Giants: A Surfer's Thrilling Challenge at Sunset Cliffs"

Dec 29, 2024 - 12:55pmSummary: The surfer had an intense session at Sunset Cliffs, where the waves were extremely big and powerful. They struggled with the strong currents while using a 6.5-foot board, finding it difficult to duck dive and paddle to their intended spot. The surfer ended up at South Garbage instead of North Garbage due to the strong drift. The waves at South were described as enormous and the situation was compounded by many inexperienced surfers in the water, posing additional risks. Overall, the experience was described as extremely intense.

Transcript: So just got out of the water at Sunset Cliffs. It was huge. It was just extraordinarily big. Yeah, just bombing. Bombing, bombing, bombing. Oh, my God. Intense. Really intense out there, honestly. So much water moving around. So much water. Even getting out. I was on the 6.5 today. And that thing. I mean, even duck diving that in this much water is just like really hard. I was out there. I paddled out trying to go to North Garbage. And I ended up at the right on South Garbage. I drifted that much just paddling out. It was intense. And then I got to South. And, dude, South was fucking huge. Like, oh, my God. Intense. So I paddled over to North. And it's still fucking bombing, dude. And also, there's so many people out there that just, like, not... Like, were ready to get hit by boards. You know, like, they were not in good spots. And maybe it's like, really just have to be at the peak or something. But, like... My God. Um... Intense. Intense.

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