Transcript: Been reading Jerry Lopez's book, um, I forget the title of it, but it's, it's been a pleasure. Just like something easy to read and just story and history of surfing. Enjoy it.
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This project serves as a reminder to be grateful, mostly because reflections revolve around things that bring happiness and gratitude, highlighting a positive default mindset. After a morning surf at Swami's with a longboard lent by Kyle, the experience was a mix of thrilling drops and spills, as well as an adjustment to the board's different feel and the technique required to maneuver it. The waves at Swami's were mellow enough to encourage trying without much fear, making the session enjoyable despite a few wipeouts. Despite the stormy conditions with wind and rain, the day turned out better than expected, providing mediocre to good waves for surfing, making it a pleasantly surprising day.
After initially hesitating due to poor conditions seen on the cams, the speaker decided to go surfing at Sunset Cliffs and ended up having a great day with good waves and few people. They were pleased with their decision as they experienced perfect offshore winds and a low tide. The speaker had fun meeting people, including someone named Chris playing reggae from a van, and also saw a familiar face, Brian. Despite the speaker's phone frequently stopping during voice memo recordings, their morning was described as truly pleasant and enjoyable.
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I recently enjoyed a burrito from Taqueria Los Ruiz and it was great. There's nothing better than a breakfast burrito after surfing.
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I enjoyed making breakfast tacos and surfing at Del Mar with Chandler, appreciating both the company and the activity after a long hiatus. The waves were relatively mellow at four to five feet, contributing to a serene surfing experience. The day brought a refreshing change of pace, focusing on writing and reflection rather than my usual building activities. Overall, it was a good and relaxed start to the morning with contemplation as the primary agenda for the day.
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Chandler and I enjoyed an okay morning surfing at 7th Street, tackling some fun four to six-foot waves. The beach was crowded with family, but we still had a good time. Afterward, we headed to Bird Rock for a croissant, a cortado, and a chat about my latest work on the demo, which got him excited. Left feeling good and looking forward to the next steps.