Transcript: Went surfing. Yeah, the high tide was not good. There's maybe five of us out in total, surfing. And one guy brought out a shortboard, which is probably the funniest thing that I've seen in a bit, for waves like that. I was like, dude, I don't even have a long enough board. So, it was funny. But, I mean, it was alright. Got a couple good ones. It was mostly just kind of swampy, swampy surf.
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The surfer had a somewhat disappointing day at Swami's, despite getting out early and having two boards with him. He decided to surf with the longboard and without a leash, which turned out to be a bad move as the surf was mixed up and not suitable for a longboard. He struggled to hold onto his board during a big set, losing it several times. He took some rough falls and learned the hard way that it was a mistake to go out without a leash. Despite the challenging conditions, he still considered it a decent day because any day that allows him to surf is a good day.
I had a morning surf session at Swami's, starting a bit later than intended around 6:20 am and getting into the water by 6:50 am for an hour-long surf until the tide came in. Observing a girl tripping over the rocks offered a cautionary glimpse of the challenging conditions, which proved true as several surfers were washed down the beach later. Carefully monitoring the waves, I managed to avoid getting swept against the rocks, unlike one surfer whose leash tangled, while another provided me with helpful advice on board positioning. The session was enjoyable with consistent four to five-foot waves, sometimes reaching six or seven feet, indicating my board's suitability for good wave conditions and its maneuverability.
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After surfing at Ocean Beach (OB) for around 90 minutes, I found the conditions quite unusual due to the high tide causing unpredictable wave patterns. Most waves averaged three feet, with occasional larger sets reaching up to five feet, making for a mostly enjoyable session where I caught numerous waves on my longboard. Many surfers struggled with their board choice, but my longboard proved advantageous, allowing me to ride steeper waves confidently. Among the waves I caught, one standout was a right-hander, which I rode exceptionally well, giving me the thrill of shortboarding on a longboard.
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Today I decided to surf at Sunset Cliffs, initially underwhelmed by the apparent poor surf conditions. However, once out in the water, the waves proved to be unexpectedly steep and challenging, making for an exciting session. I met a few surfers, including someone named Brian, all of us on shorter boards, catching waves and occasionally wiping out. Despite the struggles with some powerful sets and an intense paddling experience, I managed to catch a particularly large, thrilling wave, turning the session into a memorable one despite the ocean's humbling force.
The surfer caught several perfect waves back-to-back at Swami's, starting with a small insider followed by a six-foot wave that was an absolute blast. The conditions changed as the tide came in, making the waves mushier, which combined with the crowdedness, prompted the surfer to move to a different spot called Boneyards. At Boneyards, the surfer gave a good wave to a girl he met and then caught two amazing rights, noticing fewer surfers there compared to Swami's. Eventually, after the shoulder pain started, the surfer took a final wave in, completing a day of beautiful surfing with light winds and nice surface texture.
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