Transcript: I went surfing this morning, trying to get a surf in before the conditions get, you know, really, really bad. And it was nice. It was a good, good little sash. It was really windy today and it was cross-shore winds. So it was messy out there. Definitely was working through a lot of anger and frustration and just a lot of emotions this morning. So many emotions when I was in the water. And I don't know, I guess it was just reflective of like how the ocean felt and being so turbulent and yeah, like, I felt like I was fighting myself. I'm like, why am I fighting myself? Fuck this. Like, I don't need to fight myself. Like being torn between two things and like, it just made my mental state really bad for like 30 minutes. And then like, kind of figured it out and I was like, you know what, like, just got to go with the flow. I can do whatever I want and how other people are going to think of me as something out of my control. And because of that, like, I just got to do what I like want to do. I don't need to do anything for someone else, especially if it's something that like, is not going to be good for me, you know, and that's okay. And I think just like accepting that and understanding that is, you know, going to be more and more important and being able to say no, and like, I think that was the thing is like, I said no. Yeah, I don't know, just feels weird.
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The speaker had a challenging morning surfing in heavy waves, almost getting barreled a few times but mostly getting crushed by the waves. Despite the tough conditions, they felt energized and determined to tackle their tasks and make decisions. The speaker expressed stress about money, considering buying a surger but unsure if it's feasible.
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The surfer had a somewhat disappointing day at Swami's, despite getting out early and having two boards with him. He decided to surf with the longboard and without a leash, which turned out to be a bad move as the surf was mixed up and not suitable for a longboard. He struggled to hold onto his board during a big set, losing it several times. He took some rough falls and learned the hard way that it was a mistake to go out without a leash. Despite the challenging conditions, he still considered it a decent day because any day that allows him to surf is a good day.
I had a morning surf session at Swami's, starting a bit later than intended around 6:20 am and getting into the water by 6:50 am for an hour-long surf until the tide came in. Observing a girl tripping over the rocks offered a cautionary glimpse of the challenging conditions, which proved true as several surfers were washed down the beach later. Carefully monitoring the waves, I managed to avoid getting swept against the rocks, unlike one surfer whose leash tangled, while another provided me with helpful advice on board positioning. The session was enjoyable with consistent four to five-foot waves, sometimes reaching six or seven feet, indicating my board's suitability for good wave conditions and its maneuverability.
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This project serves as a reminder to be grateful, mostly because reflections revolve around things that bring happiness and gratitude, highlighting a positive default mindset. After a morning surf at Swami's with a longboard lent by Kyle, the experience was a mix of thrilling drops and spills, as well as an adjustment to the board's different feel and the technique required to maneuver it. The waves at Swami's were mellow enough to encourage trying without much fear, making the session enjoyable despite a few wipeouts. Despite the stormy conditions with wind and rain, the day turned out better than expected, providing mediocre to good waves for surfing, making it a pleasantly surprising day.
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The speaker reflects on the experience of surfing today, expressing a desire for technology to automatically provide contextual details like location and surf conditions. They describe the struggle of choosing a surf spot due to large swells, ultimately opting for a break called TORMO. However, upon entering the water, they realize the waves appear smaller than expected and the paddling distance is challenging. Despite the current pulling them southward, they persevere in their surfing experience. Sure, whether it's an entire book or a brief article, I'm happy to condense it down to its core message. Just share the text with me, and I'll summarize it in 4 sentences or fewer. The speaker recalls catching a wave and feeling elated as they successfully performed maneuvers similar to those on a long board. They caught one more wave but were tired from paddling out, which was intensified by the increasing number of inexperienced surfers. The speaker felt nervous for the less skilled surfers' safety and questioned their own abilities initially but gained confidence after catching multiple waves successfully. Overall, the speaker reflects on the enjoyment of the day's surfing experience.