"Thrilling Waves: A Perfect Day at the Ocean"
Oct 13, 2024 - 2:30pmSummary: I had an incredible day at the ocean, the waves were just phenomenal. It felt like hitting set clips all day, and I thrive in that. The crowd wasn't too heavy, only a few of us were really taking on the waves. They were averaging around six feet, occasionally peaking at eight feet. I managed to ride a couple of those bigger ones and felt truly in sync with my board, unlike with my other board that I just can't seem to get the hang of anymore. It was a day filled with exhilarating rides, fast cuts, and lip hits. Apart from the surfing, I also had the chance to help someone out by rescuing their board, which felt great. The conditions were perfect, no wind, just beautiful waves, making for an unforgettable session. The whole vibe, even outside the water, was so positive; people were kind, and I left the beach feeling extremely stoked. I'm already looking forward to tomorrow's session, expecting it to be just as epic, reminiscent of a fantastic day we once had, living up to all my expectations. So, yeah, totally stoked.Transcript: You know, holy shit, the ocean was so fucking good. Waves were like, I don't know, it's some set clips, I love some set clips. It's like any day that's the size that's having set clips, you just know it's going to be so fun. There's no being the size that's not set clips in my book. It's just always a blast. Usually the crowd is like a bit thinner. And today there is like maybe like four other people who are actually catching waves. It's like just a ton of people to avoid, but it was a blast. Like, when did I probably six, six foot on average, like saw it overhead at waves, with like eight foot occasional coming through. I got a couple bombs, like seven or eight foot. Got a bunch of six footers, just like actually fell really good surfing. And fell like I knew what I was doing again. Like my other board, I just don't know how to surf that anymore. But this board, I'm like, oh yeah, this is fun, this is surfing. Woo! And can I go really fast, kind of hit the lip a little bit and turn and whatever. So the waves are just so good. I rescued someone's board and that was nice. The guy was so thankful because he didn't have a leash and he lost it. And I've been there so many times. So I was like, I just have to get this guy's board. But yeah, it was really, really good. Just beautiful out there. Like I know it's Mars going to be great. It's going to be even better because it's going to be Monday. So people are going to be there at noon when the surface the best. It was basically perfect, like no wind, nothing beautiful, beautiful surf, like occasional way between sets. But like, I, I don't know, just so. So so so so good. And the vibes were just so great. Like even getting out of the water, people were just like waving me across the street. I said like, thanks to this one guy who waving me across the street and he's best to get in. And he's like, I have a great day. I was like, fuck yeah, dude. Just so stoked. So fuck it's stoked. So yeah, I know the surf tomorrow is going to be great too. Yeah, I was just like that one day when we went. It was like a taste. A taste of what was going to be. And it totally was exactly what I expected. And it was awesome. So yeah. Stork.
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