Comment: Surf ag tourmo let’s gooo
Transcript: So I surfed Tormo, and it was nice. It was really nice. I mean, the waves were a mess, and just like windy and kind of crappy and whatever, but it was big and it was fun, and I caught some giant waves on my longboard, and yeah, it just was an overall pretty nice time. Probably like six to eight foot really was what was being surfed. So pretty solid, solid day, solid session, I'd say.
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After surfing at Ocean Beach (OB) for around 90 minutes, I found the conditions quite unusual due to the high tide causing unpredictable wave patterns. Most waves averaged three feet, with occasional larger sets reaching up to five feet, making for a mostly enjoyable session where I caught numerous waves on my longboard. Many surfers struggled with their board choice, but my longboard proved advantageous, allowing me to ride steeper waves confidently. Among the waves I caught, one standout was a right-hander, which I rode exceptionally well, giving me the thrill of shortboarding on a longboard.
I had a morning surf session at Swami's, starting a bit later than intended around 6:20 am and getting into the water by 6:50 am for an hour-long surf until the tide came in. Observing a girl tripping over the rocks offered a cautionary glimpse of the challenging conditions, which proved true as several surfers were washed down the beach later. Carefully monitoring the waves, I managed to avoid getting swept against the rocks, unlike one surfer whose leash tangled, while another provided me with helpful advice on board positioning. The session was enjoyable with consistent four to five-foot waves, sometimes reaching six or seven feet, indicating my board's suitability for good wave conditions and its maneuverability.
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Today yielded perfect waves and a solid surf session, but the challenge was the crowded conditions and a closed parking lot. The surfer is feeling exhausted after potentially surfing six out of the last seven days, and plans to rest and get a tetanus shot due to a scrape. They're also becoming more familiar with the local surf community, having met and conversed with several people in the lineup. Despite being tired and facing competition for waves, the surfer still had a satisfying outing, maneuvering around others and catching a particularly memorable right wave.
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Today I decided to surf at Sunset Cliffs, initially underwhelmed by the apparent poor surf conditions. However, once out in the water, the waves proved to be unexpectedly steep and challenging, making for an exciting session. I met a few surfers, including someone named Brian, all of us on shorter boards, catching waves and occasionally wiping out. Despite the struggles with some powerful sets and an intense paddling experience, I managed to catch a particularly large, thrilling wave, turning the session into a memorable one despite the ocean's humbling force.
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The speaker reflects on the experience of surfing today, expressing a desire for technology to automatically provide contextual details like location and surf conditions. They describe the struggle of choosing a surf spot due to large swells, ultimately opting for a break called TORMO. However, upon entering the water, they realize the waves appear smaller than expected and the paddling distance is challenging. Despite the current pulling them southward, they persevere in their surfing experience. Sure, whether it's an entire book or a brief article, I'm happy to condense it down to its core message. Just share the text with me, and I'll summarize it in 4 sentences or fewer. The speaker recalls catching a wave and feeling elated as they successfully performed maneuvers similar to those on a long board. They caught one more wave but were tired from paddling out, which was intensified by the increasing number of inexperienced surfers. The speaker felt nervous for the less skilled surfers' safety and questioned their own abilities initially but gained confidence after catching multiple waves successfully. Overall, the speaker reflects on the enjoyment of the day's surfing experience.
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I fulfilled my 2024 goal of deepening relationships tonight. I rode my bike looking for puddles to splash in after the rain, but found none. Instead, I had a rewarding conversation with Claire and Sam at Ichiban. This interaction was very satisfying.
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